From our tiny 23rd floor east-facing room overlooking Kowloon Park and the Tsim Sha Tsui district, the sunrise was almost blinding. Once my eyes had adjusted to the invading light, I could make out the red, blue, and yellow funnel of Star Cruises' 1990-built 40,000 gt MV STAR PISCES passing through a small break in the peninsula's northern skyline. Moments later, she would reappear from behind the high rises obscuring Ocean Terminal. With a fresh white hull, the PISCES turned about in the basin between Hong Kong and Kowloon where the sun had turned the water a brilliant gold, and then slid out of view toward her berth. This November 2000 day belonged to Star Cruises, Asia's leading cruise line and (as parent company to US-based NCL and Orient Lines) fourth largest operator in the world.

With my traveling companion, Michael Masino, I would spend a most enjoyable morning exploring Hong Kong Central, returning to Kowloon on the historic Star Ferry (no relation to Star Cruises) just as the larger, even more magnificent SUPERSTAR LEO was entering the channel. This state-of-the-art 76,800 gt vessel provoked a great deal of interest as she neared, her powerful MAN BW diesels humming slightly as her towering white steel and glass superstructure loomed over the harbor. The backlight shone through her open public spaces as she briefly obscured the sun on her way to Ocean Terminal.

At 6:00 PM, just as the lights of Kowloon began to flicker on, we boarded our mega-ship, eager to sample a two night voyage to the Hainan Island port of Haikou, some 306 miles due south of Hong Kong, off the coast of Vietnam. We were shown to our cabins, numbers 11500 and 11506 on forward port Deck 11 (Bridge Deck). In the OB category, they are listed in Star Cruises' brochure as ocean view staterooms with balconies. Comparable or superior to the modular units found aboard US based cruise ships, they offer similar amenities, albeit with an Asian flare. The soft furnishings are in cheerily vivid shades of mauve and yellow, although there is a variation in accommodation color schemes that is determined by deck.

In its 201 square feet there are two twin beds as well as a mini-sofa that can convert to use as a third berth. A writing/make up area with desk and chair is near the balcony door and there is a small table adjacent to the sofa where we were provided with a basket of complimentary fruit.

The other amenities include a hairdryer, bathrobe, satellite telephone with international dialing capabilities, and a remote-controlled digital television that offers in cabin movies and a satellite channel that gives up to the minute weather and navigational information from the bridge. Many of these cabins are interconnecting, which is a plus for large families that travel together.

After settling in, we left our cameras behind and proceeded immediately to Raffle's on Deck 12 for the International buffet (which is offered between 6:30 and 10:00 PM). Those who are not accustomed to Asian cuisine need not fear, as the selection provided a delicious combination of Continental and Asian food. A variety of salads, soups, entrees, fruits, and desserts surpassed our expectations. I was thrilled with my selection of a Greek salad, eggplant and pepper marinade, chicken thyme, stir-fried vegetables, and fresh watermelon.

Coffee and tea are available, but there are no free "cool" drinks other than ice water. One has to pay a moderate fee for a soda or a fruit drink, but on the plus side, the fruit drinks were freshly juiced and succulent (not to mention healthy). I had a honeydew melon juice and yearned for more.

Although it would have been nice to linger a bit longer in Raffles to watch our fellow passengers ebb about (all in all, a descending mixture of Chinese, Japanese, Australian, and European), we explored the magnificent state-of-the-art ship.

By 7:15, we were in the Moulin Rouge Showroom for the early Haikou orientation lecture and "Welcome Aboard" show. We were assigned balcony seats because of our cabin category, although we could have just as well sat in the inclined central section of the room. This is a unique concept with Star, and much like Cunard's tiered dining room policy aboard QE2, offers a little something extra for those who pay for superior accommodation.

Much was covered in a brief time as there were no less than five excursions offered in Haikou. We would take the highly recommended "Qiongtang Study/Dinner of Hainan's Traditional 4 Famous Cuisines" tour. Other excursions included: Nanli Lake (with a sea food dinner), Wild Safari (with a mutton hot pot dinner), and Crocodile Farm (with sea food dinner). All were priced at $HK250.00 except for the Wild Safari, which was an extra $HK30 per person (total $HK 280.00).

The ensuing show, "Staying Alive" (a second show, "Superstars", went on at 9:15 PM), was on par with what is found aboard western ships. The staging (including a revolving dance floor), lights and sound provided state-of-the-art support for ten choreographed Ukrainian dancers in a tribute to Bee Gees and Abba music. "Yuri and Alfiya" were next in an extraordinary roller-skating ballet performance, capped off by magician Phelston Jones, who did his best to engage the audience with pyrotechnic magic tricks.

Michael and I were soon on deck as SUPERSTAR LEO slowly pulled away from Ocean Terminal. A nighttime Hong Kong departure is surely among the ten great wonders of the cruising world. Ferries and small craft darted about, distorting the city's neon reflections into a myriad of patterns in the black harbor waters. The whistles, horns, and murmur of nearby voices and the combined aromas of the LEO's galley, exhaust, and the sea air were heady stimulants as we proceeded through the Lie Yue Mun Channel between the Kowloon Peninsula and Hong Kong Island.

At the anchorage off the old Wan Chai airport, no less than four overnight casino ships prepared for departure. Guangdong Shantou Navigation Company's utilitarian 5,964 gt JIN HU was a relative newcomer to this particular scene, having most recently been in Chinese coastal passenger service. Not particularly an attractive vessel, she was nonetheless an important development in ferry design when she entered service in 1968 as DROTTNINGEN. The gaudily festooned 7,560 gt 1990-built CAPTAIN OMAR has been doing the overnight circuit for the past few years, having once been considered one of the world's finest expedition cruise ships when she was actively sailing as the COLUMBUS CARAVELLE. The profile of the 12,475 gt GOLDEN PRINCESS was instantly familiar, although her new name and livery came quite as a surprise. She has just taken her new name after a brief spell in overnight ex-HK casino cruising as the JOY WAVE. She dates from 1967 as Finska Angfartygs A/B's FINLANDIA, but the extensively rebuilt vessel may be best known for her "middle" years as the OCEAN PEARL and PEARL OF SCANDINAVIA. The 15,271 gt WALRUS, dating from 1990 as Crown Cruise Line's CROWN MONARCH, rounded out the gathering of gambling ships.

While the lights and scenery still enveloped the LEO, Michael and I proceeded to aft six deck to the elegant Windows Restaurant. On sailing day, Western-style dinner is served here from 6:30 PM until 10:00 PM, while at the same time, the midships Garden Room offers authentic Chinese cuisine. Our brief time aboard did not allow us to sample all of the dining opportunities the LEO provides, but what we did experience was beyond our expectations.

Passengers can eat in either, but not both, of these venues at each mealtime. In order to prevent overcrowding by those who might try to abuse this policy, access cards are "swiped" by elegantly attired hostesses at the entrance to each dining room. For those (like us) with an unending appetite, there are no restrictions for having a second meal in Raffles.

The LEO also features five alternative extra tariff restaurants. Three of these require reservations and are more formal: Shogun for Japanese food; Maxims for French cuisine; and Tai Pan for Chinese specialties. The other two, Blue Lagoon and the Bier Garten, provide international and al fresco dining, respectively. Blue Lagoon is open 24 hours, while the Bier Garten has extensive, but varying meal times (all listed in the daily Star Navigator program).

Star (and NCL's) Freestyle dining concept went without a hitch as we were seated underneath the double deck windows at our own table (normally accommodating four). The "elegant casual" dress code was not abused by anyone we saw, and while there was not a sea of dinner jackets and formality, our fellow passengers were dressed to a degree that suited the occasion.

Star features a "no tipping" policy, which goes a step further than say, Holland America, where passengers are actually requested to not tip (as opposed to doing so at their own discretion for extraordinary service). Our waiter and busboy were attentive and efficient, and the food was quite good. An order of mixed salad, chicken soup, Thai noodles, and chocolate pudding were delivered to my guilty, gluttonous satisfaction.

We watched the bustling lights of Hong Kong fade to a fuzzy glow as LEO's screws churned up a moth green wake outside the reinforced panes. Even at our increasing speed, the vibration was at a minimum in this spectacular room.

We did our best to walk off the evening's meals by traversing the brilliantly lit teak promenade.

Following the announcement that Maharajah's was opening up, the public areas resembled an orderly train station during commuter hours. If one was not going in the direction of the ship's casino, it was wise to step aside in order to not interrupt the flow.

During my visit to the ship a year prior, Maharajah's was off-limits. Unlike other mega-ships, the casino could not be photographed, even when empty. Star strictly enforces this policy with security people stationed at the entrance. Occupying the forward starboard portion of Deck 7, with a terraced section at the far forward end, the L-shaped room was filled with a bevy of gaming areas and slots. On the port side, the exclusive Admirals Club occupies a smaller area, catering only to the very top suite occupants, VIPs, and high rollers.

After our brief walk-through, we climbed up to the spectacular Galaxy Of The Stars Lounge and sat on the starboard overhang just above the wheelhouse. This extension allows a stunning view aft toward the LEO's skyline of towering, balconied decks. It was a perfect way to end the day, watching our hull slice through the illuminated South China Sea with an occasional shutter in response to the larger swells.

From my bed I savored the misty green morning through my cabin's open full-length door. Beyond the fluttering curtain and freshly salt-streaked balcony glass, an occasional trawler would plod through the calm. It was hard to leave this tranquility, even for breakfast, but there was much to do before our 1:00 PM arrival in Haikou.

I rang Michael, who was already up and about. We were soon eating in Raffles, where I was happy to find an unending supply of green tea to accompany my breakfast. In addition to the usual western assortment of eggs, toast, French toast, bacon, sausage, oatmeal and cereals, there were Asian alternatives, including congeal and miso soup.

We wandered about to document the deck areas, stopping briefly to watch a lady in black exercise gear practice Tai Chi. She was the sole figure on the huge overhanging helipad area on aft Deck 13. It was a bit early for the pool areas to have much activity, but the balmy air portended a busy lido day for those not going ashore.

So that we would not miss the arrival in Haikou, we quickly ate lunch in Raffles. The harbor itself was not of any aesthetic significance, but it appeared as though work was underway to modernize and expand the terminal area. As LEO's thrusters pivoted her starboard side toward the jetty, the gray green waters clouded with brown sentiment.

The shallow port of Haikou put an end to this past winter's program of cruises by upstart operation China Sea Cruises when it was found that their ship, the 1956-built SS CHINA SEA DISCOVERY's (originally Cunard Line's CARINTHIA and later rebuilt as Sitmar's FAIRSEA) 28 foot 7 inch draft exceeds the harbor's depth.

Repeated announcements reminded passengers that the following contraband could not be brought ashore in Haikou: antiques, plants, fruits, animals, pornography, newspapers, and magazines.

Not only are Chinese visas required to go ashore on Hainan Island, passengers are not allowed to go off unescorted from the port. For $HK70, a city shuttle service is provided by the ship for those who are not on an organized excursion.

We passed through immigration and were led to a bus that had English and Mandarin guides. Once we got away from the bustle of the terminal area, we were bouncing along a pot-holed dirt road in a very rural part of the island. Small family farms dotted the verdant countryside as we passed rickshaws, bicyclists, and local workers along the highway.

Our guides were pleasant and enthusiastic, offering up an almanac's worth of information on the history, culture, and geology of Haikou and Hainan in general. Once on the paved highway, we were off to our first stop, The Hairui Tomb, which is a temple and garden honoring one of the upstanding officials of the Ming Dynasty. Before leaving, we were given the opportunity to purchase coconuts, which for mere pennies were sliced open for a refreshing drink.

The second stop, on the outskirts of the city, was the Memorial Temple of Five Officials, also known as the First Temple of Hainan, built in remembrance of five leaders who were banished to Hainan during the Tang and Song Dynasties. The highlight was a series of antique mural portraits and stone statues of the celebrated men.

We continued to the city center, where a quick stop was made at the 270 year old Qiongtai Study, once the most respected place of learning in Haikou's Qiongzhiou suburb. Here, historic parchments are preserved in glass cases.

During the drive, the perils of the highway became all too apparent. Even tour guides will advise you that part of the adventure of visiting Hainan is surviving the daredevil motorists who tend to ignore pedestrians and traffic signals. One vehicle pulled in front of ours, forcing us to a stop. Before we knew it, the occupants were brawling on the sidewalk in a bloodying fist fight. Then, just as quickly, the driver sped off, leaving his battered comrade behind.

We were next at an urban center arena to watch a fantastic Tai Chi demonstration by groups of very young school boys. Dressed in traditional silks and with sword and stick props, they amazed us for the greater part of an hour with individual and group routines that displayed discipline and dexterity.

As evening drew near, we were taken to a tea house where different varieties of tea were prepared and served. Then, as rush hour traffic peaked, we proceeded to a large hotel for a seven course dinner featuring Hainan's native cuisine. The meal offered a little something for everyone, from seafood to chicken and tofu, each with its own aromatic sauce. Here we had a chance to get to know the English-speaking members of our group, most of whom hailed from Japan.

The excursion was long and enlightening. Our only regret was that our return to the ship was nearly an hour after our 7:30 PM reservation in Maxims. As a consolation, we went to the Cafe in the lower level of the atrium for a delicious pastry desert and cappuccino. After sailing, we utilized our reserve energy for a quick workout in the gym and an invigorating swim against the current in the neighboring aqua spa.

Sleep came easily with "X Men" on the cabin television as LEO retraced her path into the South China Sea.

In between breakfast and lunch in Windows, I managed to fulfill a desire to have a cup of green tea on my balcony and study the jagged islands on the approach to Hong Kong. The seas were moderate, enough to provide some shipboard rattling and likewise send large breakers crashing into the rocky shores in the distance.

I also found time to pack, stroll the pristine promenades once more, and visit the Bridge Viewing Area while Michael played Bingo in the Galaxy Of The Stars Lounge.

This special room, located directly aft of the center portion of the wheelhouse, allows passengers to peer in at the control panels and activity on the bridge. Various charts and builder's information on the SUPERSTAR LEO and other ships in Star Cruises' fleet are displayed here.

After lunch, we went to forward Deck 13 to watch as our ship passed the back side of Hong Kong island through a narrow isthmus toward Kowloon. I had the chance to photograph the four previously-mentioned casino ships at their anchorage before we cued up to disembark.

We had a most enjoyable time aboard the spectacular LEO. The only regret is that the short trip was not enough to fully enjoy all the facilities, activities, and dining options this stunning ship has to offer.

The LEO's Hong Kong-based itinerary through September 2001 is as follows: