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A Weekend On The EMPRESS Peter Knego cruises on Imperial Majesty's REGAL EMPRESS
Built as OLYMPIA in 1953
Transatlantic Shipping Corporation (Greek Line)
Built by Alexander Stephen and Sons Ltd., Glasgow
Yard no: 636
Extensively rebuilt at Perama in 1982 and Hamburg in 1983
22,979 gt (as built) 21,909 gt(today)
186.1 by 24.1 m/ 611 by 79 feet
Two Pametrada geared turbines; Twin screw; 26,000 SHP 21 knots (as built)
Klockner-Humboldt-Deutz diesels; 20,272 BHP; 14 knots (today)
Passengers: 1190, crew 391 (today)
REGAL EMPRESS, photo and copyright Lou Lippincott 2006.
Peter Knego transfers to REGAL EMPRESS (parts eight through eleven) from A Week at the OPERA (parts one through seven).
part eight
At dawn, on Saturday February 4, 2006, from my rain-soaked balcony on the MSC OPERA, I watched RCI's recently enhanced and stretched ENCHANTMENT OF THE SEAS berth beyond the Wilma-induced ruins of Bert and Jack's landmark restaurant at the northern tip of the eastern terminus of Port Everglades. After our final breakfast, Shawn and I gathered our cameras as the deleriously classic 1953-built MV REGAL EMPRESS (ex OLYMPIA, CARIBE I) entered the channel. She turned and berthed sternward, resting her Clyde-built cruiser stern within mere feet of OPERA's towering bow.
"Port-pendicular" to the OPERA's stern and spanning the width of Port Everglades' main harbor, lay CARNIVAL LIBERTY. Her wide LCD screen was blaring a company commercial that was unavoidable, even from our non-conglomerate cruise ship.
On this rather glum, cloudy day, our friend and local ship enthusiast, Don Martin, came to escort us to the CARRIE B harbor cruise. The only game in town if one wants to photograph cruise ships in Port Everglades, the CARRIE B sails from the downtown riverfront three times daily. The two deck paddlewheeler traverses the New River, the Intracoastal Waterway, and Port Everglades, showcasing multimillion dollar homes and yachts passed enroute in anecdotal fashion.
When we finally reached the harbor, the lineup was most impressive, beginning with the CARIBBEAN PRINCESS, her widescreen TV blaring more commercial imagery from the base of her grilled, futuristic funnel. Paul Allen's $240 million USD yacht OCTOPUS was next, complete with helipad and submarine marina. Celebrity Cruise Line's angular CENTURY, one of the finest of the 1990s built cruise ships, continued the panorama. East of the gathering of CARNIVAL LIBERTY, MSC OPERA, and REGAL EMPRESS, ENCHANTMENT OF THE SEAS led to the ZUIDERDAM, and, ultimately, the MSC LIRICA berthed all the way south near the turning basin at Pier 29.
A dark, dripping anvil of clouds hung overhead, portending a torrent of Floridian moisture. Following a front of arctic chill, our harbor cruise aborted its Bahia Mar circuit to get us back to the relative safety of the dock before the downpour began.
Don eventually delivered us to the terminal, where the curvaceous cruiser stern and riveted flanks of REGAL EMPRESS beckoned.
part nine
Returning to the Alexander Stephen and Sons-built liner was like coming home to family and friends. The warm woodwork, polished nickel and brass accents, and genuinely kind staff and crew was heartening after a gloomy afternoon dealing with Port Everglades' security.
My cabin, U91, was once the aft part of OLYMPIA's tourist class card room. Paneled in stunning walnut-stained oak, it contains one of the original Ware paintings of royal cards from 1953. The woodwork here includes ornate cornices and cross beams in the style of a fantasy pirate ship. There are louvred vents above and a pair of large brass-framed picture windows that have blown glass panes and oak-framed shutters. With a king-sized bed and television, this particular cabin has all the modern conveniences in a perfect old world setting. Shawn's cabin, U97, is two doors aft. It was once part of OLYMPIA's whimsical Zebra Room, which was converted into relatively modern suites toward the end of the ship's Greek Line career. It, too sports large brass-framed windows.
The boat drill was conducted by our thorough and authoritative Ukrainian social hostess. No one left without knowing exactly what to do in case of emergency.
On the bridge after sailing, it was great to see the very kind Captain Giorgios Antonellos, a veteran of Chandris (AUSTRALIS, ELLINIS, THE VICTORIA) and Premier (OCEANIC, BRB II, BRB III, and REMBRANDT). My last visit with him was in late 2002 when the three great remaining steamships of Premier were laid up at Freeport.Arthur Pollack, president of Imperial Majesty Cruises, and his wife, Susan, are on this voyage. They sail in REGAL EMPRESS regularly and run the company like a family business. Arthur is involved in all aspects of the ship's operation and has thankfully kept this little floating jewel viable in a sea of neon-clad, steroid-induced competition.
The indomitable and positively electric Alain Chabot is the hotel manager. Alain has served aboard just about every classic ship in recent memory, including the diminutive CP PRINCESS PATRICIA and CN PRINCE GEORGE to CARNIVALE (ex EMPRESS OF BRITAIN, etc.), REGENT STAR, REMBRANDT, and OCEANBREEZE. Joining us were Captain John Kafouros, who sailed in OLYMPIA as a child, and his fiancee, Eyvonne Jonathan. Cruise director Jim Ward is a welcome, familiar face from DOLPHIN IV, OCEANBREEZE, and prior cruises in REGAL EMPRESS.
The Imperial Majesty logo on REGAL EMPRESS' funnel. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2004.
A quick update on the REGAL EMPRESS....
She has just returned from drydock in Freeport and is looking positively radiant. The paintwork is immaculate; the teak decks are spotless; and the lido area around the pool has been given a fresh, new darkish blue surfacing. The public rooms, passageways, and accommodation look their best ever.
The Caribbean Restaurant, facing aft. The buffet service area has been removed and the original chairs replaced with those from OCEANBREEZE's dining room. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2004.
One of the many paintings along the dining room's length. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2004.
The Caribbean Restaurant, once OLYMPIA's Olympian Hall, is, to this vintage ship lover, the most beautiful room of any ship sailing. Its woodwork, marquetry, paintings, and etched mirrors are some of the last examples of their kind.
The REGAL EMPRESS is an absolute "must do" for anyone with an interest in classic passenger ships. With her current upkeep and care continued, she could go on for seemingly ever, but SOLAS will force her out of service in 2010. Now is the time to savor the delights of this Clyde-built EMPRESS, but expectations of giant plastic atria, neon, and massive spas must be left at home.
The curvature of REGAL EMPRESS' forward superstructure. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2004.
From the vantage of her port wing, the curvature of REGAL E's forward deck housing and superstructure are sublime. The seas are gray but smooth as drizzle floats down. A fine trail of smoke emits from the blue and white funnel. Sun Deck glows in a yellowish light from beneath a canopy of boats and traditional davits. Ft. Lauderdale is on the stern horizon, illuminated in a magenta strip of twilight sky under the dark cloud cover. The CENTURY passes a mile or so off our port side, a myriad of twinkling lights.
Our staff captain on this voyage (and also REGAL E's alternate captain), Sotos Papacharissiou, remarks that his nephew has just joined the CENTURY for his seagoing career. Captain Papacharissiou first joined the ELLINIS 40 years prior.
REGAL EMPRESS continues on her 14.5 knot course as the skies darken further and we adjourn for dinner with our group of friends.
It would have been just fine if the meal was adequate or even good. Tonight, the food is superb! From a very fresh and flaky vol au vent to a creamy and equally flaky Napoleon, my courses include a deliciously pungent and garlic-tinged gazpacho, a fresh Greek salad, and an absolutely divine lemon-tinged fillet of sea bass.
The show was highlighted by the presence of Adriana, who hails from Romania. It took me a moment to realize where I had last seen her perform. The talented blonde beauty was one of the featured entertainers on ATALANTE during my seven night Aegean cruise in 2003. Soon, I would learn that her sister was the auburn haired soprano we enjoyed so much on the OPERA last week.
A crew party followed, giving us a great behind-the-scenes look at REGAL EMPRESS. The staff comes from over 40 countries, but are, without clichˇ, like a close knit family. Balinese, Russian, Ukrainian, Philippine, Mexican, and Bulgarian alike gathered for a period of exotic stage antics and an award ceremony for the employee of the month.
Meanwhile, we were overtaken by the CARIBBEAN PRINCESS on our starboard side while we passed the inbound COSTA ATLANTICA to port. Like comets in a watery galaxy, other massive cruise ships lit up the distant horizon, too far away to properly identify.
The bliss concludes with a romp around the gorgeously terraced afterdecks and then back to cabin U91 for an excellent night's sleep as we gently rolled through the tropical Atlantic.
part ten
This afternoon, Sunday, February 5, I write from the sunken alcove of REGAL EMPRESS' Commodore Club, which was originally the OLYMPIA's Aegean Club. Glowing, precious woodwork surrounds me as the zig-zag deco nickel railings reflect Bahamian sunlight from the wood-paned windows over my shoulder.
The starboard sunken wing of the Commodore Lounge, facing aft. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2001.
Another indulgent day began on forward Sun Deck as we entered Nassau on a very blustery morning. We pitched a bit as huge waves slammed into the breakwater adjacent to the lighthouse. On the beach off our port side, a little coaster seems to be stranded. In the brilliant turquoise harbor, backlit by a clouded sun, RCI's massive VOYAGER OF THE SEAS awaits. REGAL EMPRESS pivots against the wind and backs into the berth closest to Bay Street. CARNIVAL GLORY struggles against the seas and follows us in, berthing on the outer side of VOYAGER. Soon, the NORWEGIAN SUN follows suit.
Top, one of the stairtower landings. Bottom, the shore excursion office, facing starboard. Photos and copyright Peter Knego 2004.
We have the full day at leisure to wander and enjoy our lovely ship as her guests head ashore....
part eleven
After watching VOYAGER OF THE SEAS depart at a relatively early 1:00 PM, Shawn and I decided to head ashore purely for the purpose of photographing REGAL EMPRESS from the short pier adjacent to the British Colonial Hotel. As we made our way, both CARNIVAL GLORY and NORWEGIAN SUN made quick departures, leaving the REGAL EMPRESS alone to dominate Nassau port.
I spent the rest of the afternoon at Alain Chabot's computer, writing this report for MaritimeMatters, finishing in time to head to the bridge for departure. Captain Antonellos and the Nassau pilot skillfully maneuvered out of port despite the relentless winds and choppy waters. The sun was setting off the port bow before REGAL EMPRESS turned northward and left it in her wake.
Another excellent dinner and "Hooray For Hollywood" in the Grand Lounge would be followed by time on the uppermost terrace where our groups' conversation would be interrupted by a magnificent procession of southbound RCI, Carnival, and Costa cruise ships off our port side.
Although entirely spent, I took the long way back to my cabin, enjoying a last look at the ship's enchanting woodwork. In one passage on Sun Deck and in another at the entrance to the Grand Lounge, there appear to be ghostlike faces. Are they Munchian abstracts, Holy sightings, or, perhaps figments of a wild imagination?
Two of the mysterious faces in the REGAL EMPRESS' woodwork. Photos and copyright Peter Knego 2004/2006.
Packing preceded a deep sleep as the enduring EMPRESS churned through the moonlit seas.
Our last morning, Monday, 6 February, was crystal clear and breezy. When I awoke at 7:00 AM, we were off the Florida coast, nearing Ft. Lauderdale. By the time we took on the pilot, Discovery Cruise Line's handsome little DISCOVERY SUN was exiting the harbor. With her Knud Hansen saucer-topped funnel perfectly illuminated by the sun (the day's theme, apparently), she turned gently to pass on our port side. She was once Commodore Cruise Line's CARIBE, which is somewhat ironic since her name was given to our ship when Commodore brought her back into service in 1983. So, like clockwork, the two ex CARIBE's meet every other morning in this busy sea lane.
The only other cruise ship in port was Princess Cruises' SUN PRINCESS. The massive yacht RISING SUN lay at the berth REGAL EMPRESS used two days prior. We would pivot in the main basin and back into the slip just in front of her. The RISING SUN is an interesting, futuristic looking vessel with a particularly long bow and an angled pipe-like funnel. Rows of full length glass windows traverse her superstructure.
The OCEANBREEZE's Mayfair Lounge doors with their etchings of British symbols live on. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2006.
Disembarkation was extremely efficient and all too fast. Leaving the REGAL EMPRESS is getting more and more difficult with the realization that in just four years, she will be gone forever. A local friend and fellow ship enthusiast, Bob Pelletier, was kind enough to whisk us away to Pompano Beach to see the rescued doors from the OCEANBREEZE's (ex SOUTHERN CROSS) Mayfair Lounge. Then it was off to Ft Lauderdale airport for a dreary and seemingly endless flight back to Los Angeles.
Click here for Peter Knego's eight part fully illustrated tour of REGAL EMPRESS ex OLYMPIA, CARIBE, CARIBE 1
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