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REGAL EMPRESS History and Tour
Regaled By The REGAL E, continued
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A Peter Knego Blog
The PK POV: Regaled By The REGAL E
December 19-21, 2006
Your blogger on his favorite wing. Photo by Rob Distefano, copyright PK Productions 2006.
Without truly understanding what the REGAL EMPRESS is, many people wonder why I savor every minute I can with this gentle old lady. She is not much cheaper to sail in than the corporate conglomerate cruise line monoliths and her amenities are modest or just plain basic in comparison. But she has a heart, soul, character, grace, hominess, and human scale that these other ships could never attain. With the 2010 SOLAS regulations looming, she is among the last of an endangered species of former ocean liners that deserves all the promotion and protection she can get.
On Tuesday, December 19, we were off to Port Everglades. It was a lovely, temperate day with the right combination of Florida sunshine, fluffy white clouds, and a moderate breeze.
On my last REGAL EMPRESS cruise in February of 2006, the ship was at an unfamiliar terminal, the port was overloaded with cruise ships, it was raining, and the check in staff were in a bit of a dreary frame of mind. To be safe, I told my travelling companion Rob Distefano to prepare for the pier business being long, drawn out and possibly grim, like security at any major airport. When we arrived, a friendly porter was there to take my large bag and the staff were not only courteous, but engaging, efficient and welcoming. What a difference!
Since Rob is not a cruise ship enthusiast, let alone a vintage liner aficionado, I began my disclaimers about the 1953-built REGAL E. After all, we had just come off a brand new megaship with all the bells and whistles, Freestyle dining, two pools, a huge spa, large balconied staterooms, etc. I could not expect him to instantly "get" the classic ship experience, could I?
The Restaurant Deck lobby, facing port. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2006.
When we stepped into the Restaurant Deck lobby with its lustrous sycamore and maple paneling, burled doors with frosted glass panes, and the long, polished nickel bellmanŐs counter, I could see he was "processing" the experience.
The former first class forward stairtower. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2006.
Up that glorious forward stairtower we climbed, passing the little alcoves with their backlit anodized aluminum pillars, reaching the mahogany paneled purser's square before proceeding forward along the Upper Deck passageway. The friendly white-gloved steward who greeted us was now trying to keep up. "You have been here before?" "Oh, yes!" I answered, "Oh yes!"
The painting by Ware of royal cards on what was formerly the aft bulkhead of the SS OLYMPIA's tourist class card room. The queen has a certain resemblance to actress Natalie Schaeffer, who played Mrs. Thurston Howell on the "Gilligan's Island" television series. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2006.
He had Cabin U-91 on starboard Upper Deck and I had its complement, U-90 on the port side. Both were originally the after portions of the Neo Edwardian tourist class card rooms during the ship's first career as OLYMPIA. The dark oak paneling was left intact when the redundant rooms were each divided into suites for the ship's CARIBE incarnation in 1983. U-91 has a colorful Ware oil painting of royal cards while U-90 has slightly more detailed woodwork, and both have wonderful picture windows with wood-framed, blown glass shutters and loads of room.
I felt bad for the steward. I think we stole a bit of his thunder, but when he realized we didn't need much assistance, he cheerfully went back to greet another arriving party.
After a myriad of dining options and the NORWEGIAN PEARL's well laid out "action stations", I was afraid our first destination, the REGAL EMPRESS' simple La Trattoria buffet line, would not impress Rob. Once again, I underestimated my friend. Our plates were cheerfully piled up (the staff handles the utensils, good protocol against the spread of NLV) with a range of offerings from homemade potato salad, a simple but fresh lettuce, tomato and onion salad, battered fish, pizza, and tender chicken drumsticks. We dined in one of the poolside bar booths, chatting over the steel drum Christmas music on the sound system. It was not long before Rob commented the food was better and more flavorful than the elaborate, expansive buffet offerings on NORWEGIAN PEARL.
No lacquer here! The nickel is constantly polished in the lovely Commodore Club, which still boasts its sunken alcoves and exotic wood paneling. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2006.
The glass enclosed port promenade, facing aft. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2006.
I took him on a quick tour, from my favorite shipboard space, the Caribbean Dining Room, to the sunken alcoves of the Regal Club and the glass-enclosed port promenade with its beautifully polished teak decking. There was time to marvel at original 1950s Deco wall sconces, nickel door frames, and literally acres of wood paneling.
Real boats. Real wood decking. Facing aft along the pristine port Sun Deck. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2006.
We peeked in at the officers' dining room's marquetry panels, did a full circle around the teak Sun Deck and admired the curves and terracing of the afterdecks. I could see my friend was still pondering the smaller/older versus massive/modern ship equation.
Alain Chabot, hotellier par excellence! Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2006. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2006.
My favorite hotel manager on the seven seas, Alain Chabot, was on board to offer his hospitality and share memories of good ships past. Alain has been with the REGAL EMPRESS since her Commodore CARIBE I days in the 1980s. He invited us to the bridge for sail-away and would join us for dinner.
Happy feet on the REGAL E. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2006.
In the remaining time before boat drill, we sat in deck chairs on port Sports Deck overlooking the harbor through the aftermost boats and davits. The 1975-built ISLAND ADVENTURE (ex KAZAKHSTAN, UKRAINA, ROYAL SEAS) was pitching on the aqueous horizon. Barely visible between two seaside condominium towers, I could make out part of the superstructure of EXPLORER (ex OLYMPIC EXPLORER, OLYMPIA EXPLORER) which was anchored off shore.
The ISLAND ADVENTURE maneuvers while the ROTTERDAM (VI) and SEABOURN LEGEND look on. Photo by Rob Distefano, copyright P.K. Productions 2006.
In the southern realm of the port, ROTTERDAM VI and SEABOURN LEGEND were the only other passenger ships visiting that day. All in all, a rather slow December afternoon at Port Everglades. It wasn't long before the ISLAND ADVENTURE (ex KAZAKHSTAN, UKRAINA, ROYAL SEAS) returned from her gambling cruise to "nowhere", entered the channel, and did her daily backwards pivot into the berth behind us. With her generously-proportioned, finned funnel and modest lines, she has become in this era of larger, squared off ships, something of a classic, herself.
We mustered at our respective stations for the ship's very thorough drill. The eastern European entertainment staff members made sure our lifejackets were on properly and lined us up accordingly. Toward the end of the safety announcements, the REGAL EMPRESS was casting her lines and thrusting her way into the harbor. By the time we made it up to the port bridge wing, the ship was in the channel, nearing the condominium towers. A Greek flag hung from one of the balconies near the top of the first building, its occupant waving with abandon as the REGAL EMPRESS, the former Greek Line flagship OLYMPIA, gave a whistle salute.
I said a quick hello to Captain Sotos Papacharissou, a Chandris/Celebrity veteran, who was sharing bridge duties with Captain Stavros Knots, whom I met for the first time. My old friend, Captain George Antonellos, whom I had sailed with on OCEANIC, OCEANBREEZE, and on my last two REGAL EMPRESS trips, was not on board for this sailing.
Another sailing, another sunset on board the REGAL EMPRESS. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2006.
From the windy starboard wing, we watched as REGAL EMPRESS' lights flickered on. With her funnel bathed in a purplish twilight hue and the fluorescent glow of her floodlights, she slowed to let the pilot off. Meanwhile, both SEABOURN LEGEND and ROTTERDAM were maneuvering in her wake as we turned on a Nassau-bound course.
We met Alain in the Commodore Club as a pianist tickled the keys and crooned away. Over some savories and a glass of wine, we mused a bit. It was so nice to be back in this time capsule of polished woods and nickel!
Soon we were at our Caribbean Dining Room table, enshrined in a heavenly combination of etched mirrored panels of frolicking mermaids and fleeting galleons, paintings of Mediterranean harbors, marquetry panels of ancient sailing craft, and a sea of amber-hued bird's eye maple and sycamore. There was a lovely din of chatter, clinking glasses and silver, and the creaking of the woodwork.
Our bread was fresh and warm, the water glasses were constantly filled, and the food was, as ever, excellent. I stuck with my usual crispy Greek salad with fresh feta, gazpacho (the best afloat and so wonderfully generous with the garlic!), and the lemon tinged sea bass, which was as divine as ever. Before I could even ask, Rob remarked that this was an even better meal than the one we had in the extra-tarrif Le Bistro on the NORWEGIAN PEARL. And that was before the dessert, a flaky Napoleon, which tasted like it was made in a proper French pastry shop.
Our next stop was the Grand Lounge, REGAL EMPRESS' showroom. We sat through the end of Bingo so that we could get a good seat up front for the evening's show. A festively attired couple next to us seemed to be having a great time. I soon learned that they were no strangers to the REGAL EMPRESS and were sailing on the ship for the 19th time. Fred Binner is a dedicated ship enthusiast and his partner, Karen Gattozzi, shares his love for ships and the sea. "You can't get a better show anywhere for the price. The shows on the big ships have pre-recorded music and rely too much on effects. These performers have talent." I would get a chance to chat more with Fred the following day.
After the show, Rob and I went up on deck to listen to the attractive brunette poolside singer. At the bar, we chatted with two nice young couples from Chicago who were taking their first cruise and loving it. We outlasted the singer and even managed to hit the Italian buffet at La Trattoria. Rob had become a bonafide REGAL EMPRESS fan! He loved the food, the entertainment, the friendly passengers, the low key ambiance, and even the way the ship moved. By 1:00 am, I had lost my voice from all the laughing and carrying on. When I returned to my cabin, I set the alarm for 8:15 so that I could be up on deck for our 9:00 am Nassau arrival.
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