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The PK POV, (A Peter Knego Blog)
From Piraeus to Palouki/OCEAN MONARCH
PART FIVE: Friday, September 22, 2006
By Peter Knego
In its original DAPHNE/Carras colors of deep blue and black, the OCEAN MONARCH's funnel is reminiscent of that of Sun Line's recently scrapped STELLA SOLARIS. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2006.Ê
A view over the stern from aft Sport Deck as OCEAN MONARCH heads for Mykonos. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2006.
I am writing from the aft Sun Deck of Golden Star Cruises/Majestic Cruises International's MV OCEAN MONARCH. There is a gentle, persistent low frequency rumble as the ship's enduring Doxford diesels push her through the seaway between Piraeus and Mykonos. A large rocky island is off our port side with a single white dwelling on the end of its cliffy peninsula. The ship's finned, royal blue funnel is framed in a milky backdrop of cirrus clouds.
The SEA DIAMOND (ex BIRKA PRINCESS) overtakes OCEAN MONARCH. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2006.
An hour or so ago, at 1:30 PM, the ORIENT QUEEN (ex STARWARD, BOLERO) passed us on the port side. At noon, the less gainly and rather impatient-looking SEA DIAMOND (ex BIRKA PRINCESS) overtook us to starboard, not long after our departure from Piraeus.
Hopefully, there is a future for the handsome little HERMES (top), currently moored in central Piraeus in a cluster of laid up ferries (bottom). Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2006.
Since my last report, we flew from Barcelona to Athens via London, taking up the entire day, Wednesday, September 20. Our 5:00 AM arrival at the Hotel Glaros in Piraeus was followed by a mandatory eight hours of sleep. The plans for the rest of the afternoon remained open, but the time was quickly filled. With some basic duties accomplished (lunch, film replenishment), we wandered into the port area. The only visiting cruise ships were the COSTA MARINA (ex ANNIE JOHNSON) and MSC ARMONIA (ex EUROPEAN VISION). But, tied up between a cluster of laid up ferries, Olympic Short Cruises' MV HERMES (ex JUGOSLAVIA, MESSAGER) lay with a slight list to port. And, quite surprisingly, off in the far distance at the harbor's mouth, was the OCEAN ODYSSEY (ex EROS, JASON, IASON), despite reports that she has already left for her intended Indian Ocean cruise service. In order to get a closer view, we took the first boat to the nearby island of Salamis. On the way, we could also see what ships were laid up at Drapetsona, Keratsini, and Perama and get a close view of the half-sunken wreck of MELODY (ex DJEBEL DIRA, PHOENIX).
My return to Piraeus after nearly three years (Last visit was with MV ATALANTE in October of 2003) felt somewhat somber. In the good company of the late George Graikos, we were able to see such wonderful ships, including: STELLA SOLARIS, STELLA OCEANIS, APOLLON, OCEAN EXPLORER I, PRINCESA VICTORIA, PRINCESA CYPRIA, SEA HARMONY (ex STATENDAM), and MARGARITA L. Now, all of those vessels and the kind Mr. Graikos are gone.
MV OCEAN ODYSSEY, looking much like her ex sister, STELLA OCEANIS. Photo by Mike Masino, copyright P.K. Productions 2006.
Our little ferryboat lurched in the swells as we approached OCEAN ODYSSEY. She looked very trim and strikingly like her ex twin, STELLA OCEANIS, in her new blue hull livery.
Many familiar ferries are currently tied up at Drapetsona. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2006.
Outside the breakwater, the line up of ships at Drapetsona was impressive. Every berth looked full, with various ferries and merchant ships in temporary layup or permanent retirement.
From top to bottom: a discordant MELODY from a distance; an overturned RASA SAYANG; more familiar ferries gathered at Perama; and CRUISE ONE with new structural additions aft. ÊPhotos by Mike Masino and Peter Knego, copyright P.K. Productions 2006.
To my surprise, our boat turned northward, past Atalanti island, and away from the wreck of the MELODY, which was on the route to Ambelakia, the nearest terminus of Salamis. Indeed, I had only asked for the Salamis ferry, not knowing that this boat was headed to Palouki, the northern port. This ended up being quite a pleasant surprise, as it allowed me to get some footage from the water's side of the capsized RASA SAYANG (ex BERGENSFJORD, DE GRASSE, RASA SAYANG, GOLDEN MOON) and to see what was at Perama, where the former Japanese cruise ship ORIENT VENUS was in transition to CRUISE ONE (soon to be further renamed DELPHIN VOYAGER for a long term charter to Delphin Kreuzfahrten).
Upon arrival at Palouki, we had time for a cappuccino before our equally satisfying return.
On the way back, the ferry sat idle across the channel from OCEAN ODYSSEY. On our port side, the MSC ARMONIA was gaining speed as she head out of the harbor. Followed by a Blue Star ferry, she motored across our bow, announcements echoing across her massive lido, and turned off our starboard side into the Aegean.
A closer view of the sweet little HERMES. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2006.
Once back, we walked over to the HERMES, which is hopefully just in seasonal layup. What a handsome little charmer she still is, with that long, open promenade, gentle camber, and louvered windows!
We left the cameras behind for a quick walk to Zea Marina and dinner at the reasonably priced, always dependable Drosopita, consuming the mandatory fresh Greek Salad, bread and olive oil, chicken pita sandwiches, and red wine.
As we returned to the hotel, the skies flashed with chain lightning and ear-splitting thunder. Soon, a huge torrent flooded the streets, but only after we were safely inside.
The Caribbean of the 1970s and 1980s moves to the Mediterranean of the new millennium. Top, the ARIELLE (former NORDIC PRINCE, CAROUSEL) and PERLA, originally one of NCL's first four "wedge" ships. Photos and copyright Peter Knego 2006.
The streets had completely dried by the time we awoke at 7:15. An interesting lineup awaited us at the main harbor, including the ex RCCL ARIELLE, the PERLA (ex SOUTHWARD, SEAWING), SEA DIAMOND, and ORIENT QUEEN. In the outer harbor, just across from the OCEAN ODYSSEY was the GRAND VOYAGER (ex OLYMPIC VOYAGER, OLYMPIA VOYAGER, VOYAGER). "Our" ship, however, was the OCEAN MONARCH (ex PORT SYDNEY, AKROTIRI EXPRESS, DAPHNE, SWITZERLAND, OCEAN ODYSSEY), which would take us on a three night cruise to Mykonos, Kusadasi, Patmos, Heraklion, and Santorini. By far the most beautiful and interesting vessel in port, her resemblance to the lamented STELLA SOLARIS was undeniable: long, riveted bow; low, modern superstructure; fully encircling promenade; streamlined finned funnel; and aft lido.
One of the last true cruiser sterns afloat, dating from the OCEAN MONARCH's original incarnation as PORT SYDNEY. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2006.
The OCEAN MONARCH's rare cruiser stern is a sweet anachronism in this era of boxy "rumps", and reveals her 1955-built British origins.
The seemingly endless cue at the terminal was slow moving, so it came as a huge relief when we were directed to a special line for OCEAN MONARCH's passengers. A shuttle bus is provided, but we chose to walk in order to get photos of the other ships in port.
Top, our marvelous cabin, 326, with three picture windows, enough floor space for aerobics, enough storage space for a family of ten, conveniently located light switches, and a pleasing, warm color scheme. Bottom, nearly every bathroom on OCEAN MONARCH features a large sink area, toilet, and tub. Photos and copyright Peter Knego 2006.
Upon boarding, a steward, in traditional form, showed us to our cabin, a very spacious double with two large windows (that face the starboard promenade), two large closets, and w/c with full bath. The color scheme of warm pastels offset by blue carpeting was reminiscent of Sun Line, or, perhaps, Epirotiki.
Located on aft Bridge Deck by the pool, the excellent, inverted crescent-shaped Neptune Lounge is more than just a little reminiscent of STELLA SOLARIS' wonderful Lido Bar. The Neptune Lounge is the OCEAN MONARCH's disco at night.
Most of the ship's public rooms are concentrated on Panorama Deck. Just aft of the dining room on the port side, there is the Aquarius Lounge (top). A small casino (second from top) follows. Note Majestic Cruise Line's logo, which is very similar to the last Sitmar Cruises "swan" logo. A card room/library is in the corresponding space on the starboard side along with the ship's duty free shop (third from top). Next, Admirals is the OCEAN MONARCH's large showroom. As with all the public areas on this deck, it features full length windows. The Rendezvous Bar follows. In another STELLA SOLARIS design similarity, its bar is double sided, also serving the Piazza Vino, aft (last image).
I was delighted to see the public rooms looking so clean and fresh. For a ship of her size, the OCEAN MONARCH has an excellent variety of lounges and bars, most of which are located on Deck 4.
Immediately after OCEAN MONARCH led the morning departures at 11:00 AM, boat drill was held. I spent some time on deck after that documenting the passing ships and inhaling the salty air. At noon, I took lunch by the pool, enjoying the live Greek music (yes, including the "Zorba" theme!) and fabulous buffet. My choices were the salad nicoise, cabbage salad, broiled salmon, and more salad with fresh oil, vinegar and mounds of parmesan. A flaky napoleon and succulent melon were consumed while photographing the passing ORIENT QUEEN.
Now the wind tugs at my weathered hat and the salt spray and subtle movement of the OCEAN MONARCH have lulled me into a state of slumber. My writing has become illegible and a nap is taking over.
End of Part Five
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