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A Week At The OPERA Peter Knego cruise on MSC's OPERA
Technical Specifications:
856ÊCabins,Ê2055Êpassengers
Length: 763 ft
Width: 84 ft
Tonnage: 59,058 gt
Speed: 21 Knots
Crew: 720
Passenger Decks: 9
Lifts: 9
Stabilized
Ship Registry: Panama
MSC LIRICA (left) and MSC OPERA (right) on their first Caribbean rendez-vous at Cayo Leventado, Dominican Republic, February 2, 2006. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2006.
part one
MSC OPERA. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2006.
January 29, 2006:
Fortified with a piping hot capuccino, I report from the comfort and coral-hued elegance of the Aroma Coffee Bar. The seas outside the picture windows are moderately choppy, large patches of which are darkened by an intermittent cloud cover. A T-shaped staircase looms just beyond, leading to the lower level of this small atrium where the chatter echoes with a distinctly Italian flair. I am onboard MSC Cruises' sparkling 58,600 gt MV MSC OPERA as she nears San Juan, Puerto Rico on a blustery Monday afternoon.
Facing forward from MSC OPERA's Aroma Coffee Bar. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2006.
The OPERA and LIRICA are slightly refined versions of Festival Cruises' EUROPEAN VISION and EUROPEAN STARS (now sailing with MSC as the MSC ARMONIA and MSC SINFONIA). Although well-appointed, the earlier pair of ships are typical boxy-looking newbuilds with towering superstructures, and squared off, angular lines. Apparently, MSC's architects were aware of this when they took over the order at Chantiers de l'Atlantique and with a few strokes of the pen, reshaped the funnels into elegant domes whose curvature is synchronous with a refined and futuristically convex stern. These ships contain design elements of P&O's ORIANA and AURORA (bow and foredecks), Renzo Piano's masterful CROWN and REGAL PRINCESSES (pool areas), and even the post war Messageries Maritimes combiliners with their low, domed funnels.
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Facing forward along the pool area of MSC OPERA. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2006.
There are nine passenger decks beginning at the top with the Solarium/Sun Deck forward and continuing aft with a miniature golf course surrounding the base of the funnel. Although I will go into much further detail in my forthcoming report for OCEAN AND CRUISE NEWS, in brief, the suites are found on Deck 12 (La Boheme) which also has a jogging track around the lido and concludes with the Byblos Disco. Deck 11 (Tosca) is fronted by a panoramic gym and spa which lead to a wonderfully uncluttered lido. Protected by large glass panels and set in wood and tan-colored decking, the two large turquoise pools are Hockneyesque with their clean, sculpted lines and restrained modern palette. A large waterfall descends from the mast housing forward, adding a "Roman Villa" ambiance.
part two
Although there is not time here to go into complete detail about the OPERA's nine passenger decks and her myriad of amenities, here is an overview of her features: a magnificently sheltered lido with two pools; a jogging track; a large waterfall sculpture; a miniature golf course; indoor/outdoor lido; an elegant and well-equipped forward facing gym and spa; a panoramic disco; eleven cabin categories ranging from inside doubles to balconied suites; a cabaret showroom; several piano bars; a terraced showroom with comfortable seats and unobstructed sightlines; a coffee bar; a circular two deck atrium; a casino; a photo gallery; a cyber cafe; and a large shopping arcade.
The decor is refined and modern, yet cheerful with restrained color schemes, brass, formica, and marble accents and warm wood tones. There is a traditional feel to the public spaces and the ship's layout.
OPERA's pods stir up the Intracoastal Waterway. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2006.
It was a brilliant Saturday afternoon when we departed Ft. Lauderdale. The OPERA has been berthing at various terminals, including the southernmost pier, 29, since the last hurricane devastated her usual terminal, 4. It is expected she will be back at the more convenient location when repairs are completed next month.
Once freed of our lines, the OPERA's pods instantly churned the brackish green waters into a muddy white frenzy. We began our journey by passing an armada of modern monoliths. First in line was Holland America's ZUIDERDAM, whose cliffs of dark blue glass mirrored our brilliant white hull and midnight blue funnel. The seemingly endless skyline of RCI's JEWEL OF THE SEAS was next, festooned in vertical acres of emerald green glass. By the time we entered the central portion of the harbor, Carnival's LEGEND had been unleashed from her berth while Celebrity's CENTURY emitted an anticipatory belch of reddish brown diesel fumes. Princess Cruises' CARIBBEAN PRINCESS loomed at the north end of the harbor like a top-heavy ice cream sundae, doing her best to make an afterthought of the sleek little former Soviet ISLAND ADVENTURE at her stern. In the midst of this glass menagerie, the mega-yacht OCTOPUS emulated the 1961-built SS FRANCE with her dark hull and winged funnel.
The OCTOPUS at Fort Lauderdale. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2006.
Heading into the channel past the balconied condos, the OPERA gave revellers a three whistle salute. The jetty on the southern end was empty and blocked off with police tape. Presumably, it, too suffered hurricane damage and is not yet another shiplovers' casualty from post 9-11 security fallout.
We turned on a south by southeasterly course with the CARNIVAL LEGEND and CENTURY in our wake, each sporting bones in their teeth in the amber halo of a late afternoon sun.
part three
Our 1500 passengers are American (about 50%) and European (mainly Italian, Spanish, German, and French). This particular cruise features several major league baseball veterans and a grammy award-winning polka artist in addition to its regular onboard entertainment. The shows have a sexy European flair that combines elements of Cirque du Soleil, Commedia dell'Arte, and Italo Disco. The ball players have hosted batting and pitching demos and have made themselves available to a very appreciative passenger fan base throughout the week.
In the smaller venues, the entertainment is reminiscent of the pre-megaship era of liners like Home Line's OCEANIC and Italia's LEONARDO DA VINCI. Passengers participate with the Italian staff in various games and activities that thrive on informality and familiarity. Adding to this ambiance is the staff and crew, many of whom actually do hail from Home Lines, Sitmar, and the pre-Carnival era of Costa and Princess.
From left to right, the OPERA's team: chief officer, chief engineer, hotel manager, Captain Romano, and Rick Sasso. ÊPhoto and copyright Peter Knego 2006.
In a media gathering on Sunday, the captain gave wonderful props to MSC's dowager steamship MONTEREY, which will face mandatory retirement in 2008. He called her his "first and best". MONTEREY is offering a season of seven night cruises from Barcelona this year before sailing to South Africa for a charter to Starlite Cruises.
Moderate seas on the second day brought out the usual accessories of behind the ear patches and gray acupressure wrist bands. One day, perhaps, designer versions will be marketed to accompany formal attire.
My cabin is up on deck nine and while my sealegs are not the hardiest, I have found the motion of the OPERA fluent and free of the shuddering of most newbuilds.
MSC America's president and CEO, Rick Sasso, is aboard and gave our press gathering a passionate and candid assessment of the company and its future goals for advancement in the U.S. market.
part four
El Morro and the rocky shores of San Juan, Puerto Rico. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2006.
Huge breakers pounded the rocky shoreline of El Morro as MSC OPERA entered San Juan roads. The winged funnel of Carnival's TRIUMPH loomed over its 500 year old stone buttresses. We berthed between the surprisingly derelict looking CARNIVAL TRIUMPH, balconies streaked with rust and mismatched splotches of paint on her funnel, and the now familiar JEWEL OF THE SEAS. Off in the distance toward greater San Juan lay the EMPRESS OF THE SEAS. Amazing that the former NORDIC EMPRESS (and intended FUTURE SEAS) is now entering middle age! An evening walking through the cobblestone streets and photographing the modern lineup of ships was a treat.
MSC OPERA at San Juan. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2006.
Once we backed into our berth at St Maarten the following morning (Tuesday), fellow writer Shawn Dake phoned from the neighboring cabin. A bit of serious shipwatching was to eclipse my morning sleep in. We had just passed the very splendid looking, freshly anchored CRYSTAL SYMPHONY. Behind us and already berthed, were the CARNIVAL LEGEND (looking much more trim than yesterday's fleetmate) and the ever-present JEWEL OF THE SEAS. On the near horizon, the EMPRESS OF THE SEAS slowly approached and pivoted to make a backward approach to the neighboring berth. Once tied up, she bobbed up and down and swayed from side to side like a restless pony.
The relatively small Franco-Dutch island of St Maarten has become a Caribbean metropolis since my fist visit in 1981 onboard Chandris' BRITANIS. I chose to stay on the ship.
The St. Maarten pier at high occupancy level, from left to right: MV EMPRESS OF THE SEAS, MV CARNIVAL LEGEND, MV JEWEL OF THE SEAS. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2006.
The four ships at the long jetty literally comprised a canyon of white steel, enshadowing those who walked its length.
MSC OPERA would be the first to depart at 4:00 PM and is currently sailing along at a brisk 21 knots for Santo Domingo. More soon....
part five
A word about the cuisine on board MSC OPERA. The dining room fare can be quite extraordinary. The breads are made fresh on board and with varying recipes. Oil and vinegar are available for those who prefer it European style. The appetizers, soups, and salads have all been top notch and the main courses, especially the fish dishes, have met expectations. An eggplant parmesan Tuesday night may be among the best entrees I have ever eaten at sea.
The shows have been truly outstanding. There is entertainment throughout the evening in almost every public room on board. The main shows cross language barriers by focusing on visuals, dance, pantomime, acrobatics, and the occasional special effect. The sound and light are state of the art but do not consume the talent on stage like so many mega-ship productions.
The MSC OPERA's distinctive domed funnel, as seen from the verdant perspective of La Romana, Dominican Republic. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2006.
Wednesday morning, February 1, officials from the Dominican Republic came on board for a formal plaque exchange welcoming MSC OPERA to the port of La Romana and its world famous Casa de Campo resort. Among the dignitaries was a Mr. Claudio Silvestri, the CEO/President of Premier Resorts. An Italian gentleman with the style and charisma of a classic movie idol, he allowed us a tour of the resort, its golf courses, marina and private beach.
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The multicolored greens of Casa de Campo. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2006.
After lunch, we partook of a horseback riding adventure before returning to the ship. Our evening was spent at the village of Altos de Chavon, a reconstructed Mediterranean villa with stone amphitheater, church, various restaurants and piazzas. Dinner al fresco with MSC America chairman and CEO Rick Sasso and Mr. Silvestri was a major highlight. We had a chance to hear about the heyday of Costa, Chandris, and the forming of Celebrity. Favorites ships such as CARLA C, EUGENIO C, BRITANIS, GALILEO/MERIDIAN and others were discussed.
Stars perform under the stars in "La Kandela". Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2006.
Mr. Silvestri escorted us to the huge arena for a lavish production entitled "La Kandela" which combined elements of Carnivale, Ziegfeld, and Las Vegas under the stars. The band of the Milky Way, Venus, and Mars were visible above as were the eerily lit pillars of a very genuine looking ruined temple in the knoll beyond the stage.
After such a full day, it was hard to not participate in the sailaway festivities on deck, but weariness had firmly set in......
part six
This morning, Thursday, February 3, I awoke at 8:30, shortly after our arrival at MSC's out island, Cayo Leventado. Located in Samana Bay on the northern shores of the Dominican Republic, this was my first visit to the area since a 1982 cruise on board Carnival's SS CARNIVALE (ex EMPRESS OF BRITAIN, QUEEN ANNA MARIA). Adding to the allure, the MSC LIRICA had just berthed beyond us, making this the first meeting of the domed-funneled Italian sisters in the Caribbean.
MSC LIRICA at Cayo Leventado. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2006.
To get to the LIRICA, I had to tender from the OPERA to the very tempting shores of the out island and switch to one of her sister's tenders. Once aboard, I found the LIRICA to be every bit as nice as the OPERA.
A view of a painting in the MSC LIRICA's Le Cabaret Lounge. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2006.
Her color schemes are cooler and more to my personal taste with violet-tinged blues, burgundy, and earthy browns. That said, it would be difficult to say one is really better than the other.
The MSC LIRICA's showroom, facing starboard. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2006.
Aside from the extra row of balconies on OPERA, the differences between the two ships are minor: LIRICA lacks the waterfall sculpture forward of the pools and does not have a separate library/card room adjacent to the cabaret show lounge.
The MSC LIRICA (left) and MSC OPERA (right) are framed by the flora of Cayo Leventado. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2006.
My ship-related ventures did not allow much time on the island, itself, but I did manage to eek out a twenty minute swim in its turquoise waters before returning to the OPERA. The two sisters gave each other a rousing salute with four blasts from OPERA being answered by a restrained two from LIRICA as OPERA podded her way into the main channel. Now, as we sail past the rugged, palm-fringed Dominican coastline, the LIRICA has appeared off the starboard stern, a small white dot in a horizon framed by amber-hued clouds.
Hopefully, there will be time for one more report during our final day at sea, tomorrow, which promises a back stage tour of the OPERA and a meeting with Rick Sasso.
Otherwise, perhaps there will be a chance to catch up from the classic REGAL EMPRESS when we join her this Saturday for a two night journey from Ft. Lauderdale to Nassau and back.
part seven
This final day, Friday, 3 February, finds MSC OPERA in gentle swells as she plies the Bahamian archipelago. It is warm and the skies are partially cloudy, making it a near-perfect sea day.
A behind-the-scenes tour of the waste treatment facility is followed by a brief meeting with Rick Sasso, who has made himself available for interviews and feedback.
I am able to accompany an Italian television crew for a visit to the fo'c'sle and the bridge, where I finally find the builders' plate.
Lunch, some time at the internet cafe, a splendidly informative presentation by cruise director Franco Pili (a veteran of Chandris, Celebrity and Festival Cruises with tenure on board ROMANZA, THE VICTORIA, AMERIKANIS, BRITANIS, THE AZUR, MSC ARMONIA and many other ships in his 16 year career) about the engine room and wheelhouse, and a backstage tour of the impressive showroom fill a busy afternoon.
Before sunset, there is time to walk the decks, get some fresh sea air, and watch the LIRICA zig zag in the far distance beyond our wake. Now, with the skies darkened, she is like a small glittering necklace on the horizon. A nice but final chat with Aroma Cafe's lovely, alliterative waitress and aspiring writer, Melanie Mendoza from Manila (who knows the MS PHILIPPINES well) brings me up to date before I click "send."
Packing, goodbyes to newfound friends, and hopefully another good dinner and show will bring the curtain down on this week at the OPERA.
Click to continue as Peter Knego transfers to Imperial Majesty's REGAL EMPRESS from a week at MSC's OPERA
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