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The PK POV (A Peter Knego Blog)
LE LYDIA Blog, History, and Tour
2,696 gt
298 by 44 feet
B&W Diesels, single screw (former operating speed of 13 knots)
Stranded and lovely, LE LYDIA at Le Barcares! Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2006.
REPORT FOUR: Thursday, September 19, 2006
By Peter Knego
Upon arrival at Perpignan, I inquired in broken French (with a silent "s") if there was a bus or local train to Le Barcares. I was told by the tourist information agent that Le BarcareZZZZZZZZ could be reached with autobus 14 (please note, although we have tried to attach the imperative accent over the "e", this ISP will not allow it to happen).
The long, winding bus ride to LE LYDIA is well worth its 90 minutes and 2.2 Euros. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2006.
Ê As we walked along the coach platform, bus number 20 was rolling its sign back to read "Le Barcares". Voila! Some ninety minutes later, the white funnel of LE LYDIA was momentarily visible in a break between trees and apartment blocks. We jumped off, quite correctly, at "Stop Le Lydia" and wandered several blocks toward the sea. Beyond a large parking lot, she awaited, the long lost "Ship In The Sand"!
LYDIA in Hellenic Mediterranean Line colors. Peter Knego collection.
LE LYDIA started her life as the Australian coastal steamer MOONTA for Adelaide Steamship Company. She was built by Burmeister and Wain of Copenhagen in 1931 and measured 2693 gt. She carried 140 passengers and a large consignment of cargo (groceries, wool, lead, and pig iron) on the "Gulf Trip", departing at 7:00 PM every Saturday from Port Adelaide for Port Lincoln, Port Pirie, Port Augusta, Port Lincoln (again) and Whyalla. She remained in service until 1955, even through the war years, when a gun was mounted on her fantail. During her Australian career, MOONTA had sailed over 750,000 miles and carried 95,000 passengers (with thanks to Robert Sexton's "Ships That Passed" website).
In 1955, MOONTA was sold to Hellenic Mediterranean Lines, who renamed her LYDIA for their Marseilles, to Alexandria route (via Genoa, Naples, Piraeus, Limassol, Alexandria, Port Said and returning via Piraeus, Naples, and Genoa). Her accommodation was rebuilt at Piraeus for one class voyages in five categories. Public rooms consisted of two amidships promenades, a social hall, winter garden, and smoke room. There was further dormitory space in the forward portion of B Deck. In all, she could carry 157 "uniclass" passengers, 123 in dormitory class, and 180 on deck.
LYDIA is shown in the sands prior to a cloudburst in this atmospheric photo courtesy of Trevor Jones in 1984. Photo by and copyright Trevor Jones.
In 1967, she was purchased by the French and had her engines removed prior to her "installation" at Le Barcares as an attraction in 1969. A channel was dredged into the sands of the newly developing port and sealed after the ship was situated. In 1974, she was purchased by Japanese investors who turned her into a casino. By the late 1980s, the ship had changed hands several times and gradually slipped into disrepair. In 1997, she was ordered closed by the Minister of Interior and in 2000, she was purchased by her current owners, Group Partouche, who planned to restore her. After years of rejuvenating the steelwork and rebuilding her interiors, she was reopened in 2005.
First view of LE LYDIA. Photo by Mike Masino, copyright P.K. Productions 2006.Ê
One approaches LE LYDIA on the starboard side. Along her midships waterline, there is a small structure serving as the main entrance for the casino, nightclub, and restaurant. Before "embarking", we circled the ship to photograph her from various angles.
Bow and stern views of LE LYDIA. Photos and copyright Peter Knego 2006.
The sun was off her port bow at 2:00 PM, illuminating her freshly painted, riveted hull brilliantly. Strong gusts of wind blew sand into my eyes and lenses as I struggled to get footage. While stepping out onto the sand in between topless sunbathers, I was a bit concerned that my documenting motives might be misconstrued, but no one seemed to care.
A rudder within reach. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2006.
When we finally reached it, we took a moment to linger under her cruiser stern, and tap the sturdy hull plating and partially submerged rudder.
Facing aft toward the lower portion of LE LYDIA's grand staircase. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2006.
We chose to enter the restaurant area, accessed by going to the right and up an outside stair platform from the main entrance. After pushing open a pair of modern wooden doors, our first view was of her lovely grand staircase. Sadly, it was reminiscent of a similar stair tower on the recently lost SCANDINAVIA (ex STELLA POLARIS). Ornate iron railing swept its way up to the top level of the restaurant, which was basically formed from the ship's three former first class public rooms.
Some of the outer portions of LE LYDIA, from top to bottom: The emergency steering station atop the platform on her fantail, overlooking the beach of Le Barcares; facing forward from the aft platform, showing the boat deck, promenades and forward superstructure; facing aft from the port boat deck; facing forward along the port boat deck; facing aft from underneath the bridge wing along port boat deck; and facing forward over the long bow. Photos and copyright Peter Knego 2006.
The friendly maitre'd greeted us, and after I tried to explain in tortured French why we were there, he granted us permission to photograph the upper parts of the ship. As the restaurant (which featured delicious-sounding food at relatively moderate prices) was full, we went outside first. LE LYDIA's original decking has been covered over in athwartship wood planking that is in quite good condition. It is nice that guests can now wander the ship's decks for atmospheric views of the beautiful coastline of Barcares. LE LYDIA's bulkheads and railings are freshly painted and overall, despite the alterations of 40 years, she is a wonderful relic. The wheelhouse is not maintained, however, and is inaccessible, a minor tick in an otherwise excellent scenario for a well-tended, preserved liner.
From top to bottom: facing aft in the aft dining room; facing forward in the midships dining room; and facing port in the forward dining room. Photos and copyright Peter Knego 2006.
By the time I began documenting the restaurant, most of the customers had left (the kitchen closes at 2:30). I started in the aft section with its dark wood paneling, square windows and ornate ebony wainscotting. The room's camber was still evident, although it now contains new wooden chairs and midcentury-inspired modern carpeting that actually resembles that in the SS ROTTERDAM's (1959) Smoking Room. The center portion of the restaurant is the most altered from its original configuration and is basically the main dining area (as its large picture windows offer the best views). Again, it contains new, "chic" seating and modern carpet in hues of orange, red, and brown. The forward salon is my favorite spot on the ship, as it adjoins the grand staircase and its original olive brown woodwork is nothing short of magnificent. Here, I was reminded of the ornate public spaces on the preserved HIKAWA MARU in Yokohama.
We ended our short visit by walking down the forward stairs (top, shown facing port) to the lower dining space, a relatively new addition to the ship, but featuring what look to be original chairs (bottom, facing forward). Photos and copyright Peter Knego 2006.
As the restaurant was closing, I rushed to document the forward, lower dining space, which is a more recent addition, although some care was taken to provide ornate glass light fixtures and a vintage ceiling treatment. Time running short before our bus back to Perpignan, we stowed our cameras and went down to peek at the Casino area. The manager knew we were coming, so offered to show it to us, but of course, no photos could be taken. The main gaming room off the entrance is two decks high and windowless save for a line of portholes on the starboard side. For a casino, it is somewhat subdued and restrained, although, of course, completely alien to the MOONTA/LYDIA era. Aft, another cavern carved out of holds and old cabins offers roulette and cards.
The Moonta Disco, facing forward. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2006.
I was able to get my cameras out to photograph the nightclub (in tribute, called the Moonta Disco), which occupies what must have been the forward hold. Apparently, it is very popular with trendy, young French vacationers and stays open year round on Fridays and Saturdays.
Facing aft from the long fo'c'sle. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2006.
I asked the casino manager if I could return to the upper part of the ship for a view aft from the fo'c'sle, which he kindly obliged.
We then literally ran off to catch our bus back to Perpignan, only to find that we misread the schedule and had to wait an hour. Hungry, we wandered Le Barcares for some food, but the place was like a ghost town, with summer season just ending. When we finally found an open cafe, we ordered lunch, but had to abandon it to get the bus. Finally, when we reached Perpignan, there was a moment to grab a nice cheesy croissant before jumping on the train to Barcelona.
Now our train is sitting at the Spanish border for clearance. The last of the sun's light is filtering through the windows of a neighboring train, bringing to a close another long, but satisfying ship adventure.
Next, A return to Piraeus and a three night cruise on board the MV OCEAN MONARCH (ex PORT SYDNEY, AKROTIRI EXPRESS, DAPHNE, SWITZERLAND, OCEAN ODYSSEY)
End of Part Four
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