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A Peter Knego Blog
Ice Water Blog, Part Five: MV DISCOVERY Ushuaia to Punta Arenas
February 16-24, 2007
February 24, 2007: I'm feeling a bit grumpy, squished into seat 10D of Aerolineas del Sur's flight 403 from Punta Arenas to Santiago via Puerto Montt. I will then connect to a Lan Chile flight to Miami, and then a final American Airlines flight to Los Angeles, which will complete a 20 hour trek involving airplanes and layovers. From my aisle seat, if I position myself just right, I can make out marbleized glaciers winding their way through a Patagonian maze of cathedral-like spires and snowcapped Andean peaks. Fluffy layers of clouds and brilliant blue water (glacial lakes and the Strait of Magellan) add to the sublime beauty. Every other window on the starboard side seems to be obscured by hands holding up digital cameras. Alas, our cruise adventure is over.
The DISCOVERY heads North by Northwest in the Beagle Channel. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
I signed off on my prior blog two nights ago on the 22nd, just before we took on the Chilean pilot and immigration authorities in the Beagle Channel. After watching the maneuver, a long process that involved a towering pilot boat whose bobbing mast was at times scraping at DISCOVERY's Riviera Deck windows, I retired.
Yesterday, the "Do Not Disturb" sign came off our cabin doorknob at 10:00 AM after our first full night's sleep in several days. I gathered the camera gear and bulleted to the open decks in order to secure a good position as we motored past a panorama of five glaciers on the starboard side. It was cool and misty outside, but the visibility was good, allowing us a clear view of the near vertical cliffs surrounding the Beagle Channel. The upper slopes were covered in snow, and the very peaks of the mountains blanketed in cloud cover. After the wonders of Antarctica, I had expected Patagonia to be anticlimactic, but that was not the case. On the port side, reminiscent of the Geirangerfjord's famous Seven Sisters, ribbon-like waterfalls plunged from the highest cliffs, zigzagging through the rocky crevices and brushy terrain. In one mountainous section alone, I counted a distinct nine of them.
The awesome Romanche Glacier, the last in a set of five sighted during DISCOVERY's Beagle Channel passage on February 23, 2007. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
Back on the starboard side, the five glaciers, named after the nations of their "discoverers" (Hollandia, Italia, etc.), eventually came into view. In grand theatrical tradition, the final glacier was the most spectacular. As it hung over a precipice of vertical rock, a wide, torrential waterfall gushed from its lowest flanks into the Beagle.
The Garibaldi Glacier looms at the head of spectacular Garibaldi Fjord. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
A quick lunch in the Lido followed, then we head to forward Deck 7 (a much less crowded vantage than the Deck 9 observation area) just as DISCOVERY made a starboard turn into the Garibaldi Fjord. Sea lions and indigenous birds kept the binoculars at arm's length as we wound about this narrow passage. The mountains were spurting forth waterfalls like leaking dams. Just as we neared the spectacular glacier at the mouth of the fjord, Cruceros Australis' trim little VIA AUSTRALIS passed along our port side, exchanging salutes with the more robust DISCOVERY. From my vantage, I could hear Captain Kemp on the bridge giving a constant series of commands as we navigated through various obstacles. Within two miles of the serene glacier, we turned about.
Nice place to visit, but you wouldn't want to die there! The fascinating, colorful cemetery at Puntas Arenas. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
The afternoon was a leisurely one, with packing, wandering about the ship to take some final photos, and pre-dinner cocktails with various officers and staff. The dining room was decked out in pirate's garb, with torn banners, wooden swords, paper hooks, etc., as we enjoyed our festive, yet final four course sit down meal of the cruise. More packing was followed by the Trivia Quiz in the Discovery Lounge before we called it a night.
Early this morning, I peeked out our curtains to see if any other passenger ships were berthed with us at Punta Arenas. The sun glimmered off the flat blue sea beyond the port, but our only other company was a large tug, so I closed the curtains and went back to sleep. Later, I would watch as the little MARE AUSTRALIS appeared and slowly motored into the berth across the quay.
The DISCOVERY's press group at Punta Arenas' museum under the sky. Left to right: Jamie Wetherbe (travel Age West), Danielle Cooper, Dedi Shank and John Shank (International Travel News), Charles Doherty (Cruise Travel), Jill Schensul (The Record -- New Jersey), Lauren Doherty, Daniel Gordon Benedict (Cruise Critic), Michael Masino, Peter Knego (Ocean and Cruise News, MaritimeMatters.com). Copyright Peter Knego 2007.
We had lunch in the Lido, then said various goodbyes to Captain Kemp, Staff Captain Kelez, our excellent room steward, Resty, and other new and old friends. Prior to our arrival at the airport, we enjoyed a three hour tour of Punta Arenas, which included a panoramic view of the colorful, friendly town, a visit to the city square, the sprawling cemetery, and the Museum Under the Sky featuring old cars, working machines, and historic artifacts.
A parting view of the lovely DISCOVERY as she soaks up the Chilean sun at Punta Arenas on February 24, 2007. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
END
Return to Ice Water: part one
Return to Ice Water: part two
Return to Ice Water: part three
Return to Ice Water: part four
Return to Ice Water: part five
