Click here for official Discovery World Cruises website
A Peter Knego Blog
Ice Water Blog, Part Four: MV DISCOVERY Ushuaia to Punta Arenas
February 16-24, 2007
February 22, 2007: "UP-side-down, you're turnin' me. IN-side-out and round and round...", warbles Diana Ross in sotto voce from the speakers in the Discovery Lounge as I slurp the first of the day's cappuccinos. Through the double deck screen of glass, the horizon vacillates from misty gray skies to churling seas. The winds are coming in from the west, giving DISCOVERY a pronounced starboard list as she plunges through five foot swells. We are eighteen hours into our northbound Drake Passage crossing, and while it is moderate for now, the possibility of much rougher seas looms in the hours ahead. Although it's not a "Love Hangover" as the next cut on the Diana Ross CD would suggest, we are vastly hung over from the past two daysâ worth of sightseeing and adventure.
DISCOVERY at Paradise Harbor, Antarctica. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
On February 20th, we awoke at 7:00 AM to find DISCOVERY surrounded in the panoramic vista of volcanic mountain and ice of Paradise Harbor. The zodiac tendering platforms were just being launched, the low groaning rumble of their winching mechanisms audible outside our cabin. We would be the third group to depart, giving us enough time for a quick breakfast and a cup of coffee before donning the layers of clothing we purchased specifically for this trip: thermal underwear, waterproof ski pants, thick sweatshirts, mufflers, caps, tall rubber rain boots, and gloves. On top of all this would go the red Discovery World parkas (which are included in the price of the ticket), with the final layer being an inflatable life jacket.
The impedimenta of gear and frosty fingers did not stop us from getting some nice views of DISCOVERY amidst the ice and splendor of her surroundings. A playful seal posed for us on one large chunk of ice while other bergs hosted small rafts of Gentoos. As the amonia-tinged odor of guano grew stronger and stronger, the zodiac delivered us to the rocky outcrop of the Chilean ranger station, where our boots would touch Antarctic soil for the first time. The little island was surrounded by baby Gentoos, most with patchy remnants of mocha-colored down on their black coats. We were not allowed to pursue them, but if we waited long enough, they might curiously approach us. While I fumbled with my cameras, two came up to inspect and give my boots a little peck before waddling off into the throng. We had enough time to take a variety of photos and even visit the small gift shop for the obligatory visitorsâ certificates and to scribble on a few cards for a coveted Antarctic postal stamp. Cueing up for the return zodiac entailed a boot scrub down to help avert bringing the permeating "Eau de Gentoo" back to DISCOVERY. Once on board, we enjoyed lunch under the Magrodome as the last groups embarked on their zodiac adventures.
Under The Magrodome, facing aft. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
After documenting more of the ship, I joined Mike in the Carousel Lounge for a delightful talk by New Zealand-based artist Noel Miller, covering the works of many artists inspired by the unique scenery and atmospheric conditions of the Icy Continent. All in all, the variety and quality of the educational talks has been one of many highlights on this wonderful journey.
When we stepped back out to deck, DISCOVERY was nearing the spectacular Lemaire Channel. On the port side, a 2,000 foot twin spire of rock shot straight up from the seas, resembling a frozen version of the great Pitons of St. Lucia. The Lemaire Channel is about eight miles long and a mile wide, a mirror-like passage under towering cliffs of glacial mountain. Unfortunately, a recent calving blocked the middle portion with large bergs, forcing us to turn about, but not without several Minke Whale spottings. By the time we were about to enter the equally scenic Gerlache Strait, the sun had broken through the mist, illuminating the snow with a slight amber glow. The chimes of first sitting dinner rang, so we made fast for the restaurant, intent to not linger over wine and the usual eve's conversation in order to return to deck as soon as possible. Again, no words can justly describe the breathtaking beauty of Antarctica. On this day, alone, I took hundreds of photos and two hours worth of video footage. As soon as I thought I had taken the perfect shot, another, better, one beckoned. In the humbling beauty of our surroundings, it was as though everyone had found their most serene, gentle, and human selves. Although some of us were exhausted and at times chilled on the outer decks, without prompting, people made way for others, offering to move to accommodate photos or a better view. Hushed voices and "oohs" and "aahs" took on an almost Buddhist cantation for what we were all witnessing together.
As Noel Miller stated earlier, the colors were far more complex than mere whites, grays, brown and blue. Everything had tints, shades, and highlights, from the violet in the clouds to the gold on the water and turquoise in the ice. Captain Kemp told us that this was possibly the most spectacular day he had witnessed in his many sailings to Antarctica. Members of the shipâs staff and crew took turns running out to deck to photograph the brilliantly lit mountains and open skies.
Sunset In Gerlache Strait, Anarctica: February 20, 2007. Photo and copyright Mike Masino 2007.
An absolutely magnificent sunset lingered over the stern until close to 9:30 PM. With virtually every digit stung by the cold, I finally recoiled to the enclosed Lido area, but the sunset lingered. The gold band across the sky turned to deep orange, crimson, and, finally indigo. One last set of photos from Sky Deck simply had to be taken before I would consign the rest to memory. What a magnificent day this was!
"Beyond Magrodome": February 20, 2007. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
Although we were exhausted, we just had to see some of cruise director Simon Heath's cabaret show in the Carousel Lounge. His singing was admirable, but his humorous banter and titillating interaction with the audience was priceless. It's all about the subtleties, indeed. The music in the Discovery Lounge has since switched from Diana Ross to a pulsating, acoustic tango. Despite a now force seven to eight outside and increased pitching, the dance hosts are teaching class on the marble dance floor to a small gathering of hardy passengers. Time for a quick break before catching up with yesterday's highlights...
Antarctic Promenade (facing aft on port side): 2-21-07. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
End of Part Four
Continue to Ice Water: part five
Return to Ice Water: part one
Return to Ice Water: part two
Return to Ice Water: part three
