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A Peter Knego Blog
Ice Water Blog, Part Three: MV DISCOVERY Ushuaia to Punta Arenas
February 16-24, 2007
February 19, 2007, continued: This morning's foray into Hope Bay was nothing short of spectacular! The vivid colors and dramatic shapes of the landscape and ice could never quite come through in a photograph or on digital tape. The clatter of ice on the sea, the frosty air filling the nostrils and nipping at fingers, cheeks and ears, and the constantly changing light were a sensory smorgasbord.
Sailing Through Iceberg Alley, Hope Bay: February 19 2007. Photo and copyright Mike Masino 2007.
Under The Mast, February 20, 2007. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
Our passage through "Iceberg Alley" in the Antarctic Sound was breathtaking. Archipelagos of ice mesas were on all sides of us as we made steady speed northward. The skies dimmed somewhat, and, for a brief while, the seas picked up as the great bergs began to dissipate. My traveling companion, Mike Masino, and I decided that it might be a good time to work off some of our recently acquired extra calories in the ship's gym. The mundane motion of a Stairmaster machine isn't such drudgery when one has a view over DISCOVERY's stern and wake.
DISCOVERY Gym, facing aft. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
The ship's teak covered promenades and exquisitely sculpted afterdecks are kept in beautiful condition. It's almost strange to think of this, the former ISLAND PRINCESS, as a classic, having grown up with her in my Los Angeles "backyard" when she and her sister, PACIFIC PRINCESS, were the among the newest and most celebrated cruise ships in the world. Was it really over 30 years ago, in 1974, when P&O bought Princess Cruises, that ISLAND PRINCESS was the company's replacement for the 1949-built liner HIMALAYA? Her features would soon be seared into the hearts and minds of the world when "The Love Boat" ruled both television and sea waves in the late 1970s and early 1980s. What I never fully appreciated at the time was the comfort level, open and airy spaciousness (for a ship of relatively modest proportions), sensible layout, and the use of large windows and minimal, modern decor to emphasize the ocean vistas and paradise that lay beyond.
While DISCOVERY has some very Italian exterior stylings, her interiors are a 1970s evolution of classic Scandinavian ship design. On Riviera Deck, one finds the semi-circular appearing Carousel Lounge, which is not entirely unlike the forward lounges of, say, SAGAFJORD and VISTAFJORD. The forward stairtower follows (of special note in both vestibules are the magnificent ship models currently on display, which include Union-Castle's 1948-built RMS EDINBURGH CASTLE and the Blue Funnel's CLYTONEUS). Galleries continue on either side (Palm Court starboard and The Photo Gallery port), with the Theater (an evolved interpretation of the more traditional cinemas on SAGAFJORD and VISTAFJORD) and the Hideaway Bar, just inboard. Beyond the aft vestibule, two more galleries (the handsome Explorer's Bar starboard and the Bridge Club port) flow into the very stylish Discovery Lounge with its QE2 Queen's Lounge-inspired pillars, wood paneled alcoves, copper relief of Viking imagery over the bandstand, spiral staircase leading to the balcony, and two story glass screen at the stern. The ship's library has replaced what was once the ISLAND PRINCESS gym in a small nook carved out of the aft/starboard corner of the room. Although quite a bit smaller than it appeared in the Hollywood set version shown on "The Love Boat", the Purser's Lobby on Pacific and Bali Decks is still a sweeping, dramatic space, and perhaps one of the first modern shipboard atriums. The marble bulkhead now sports a Murano glass abstract sculptural assembly that resembles birds in flight.
Purser's Lobby, facing aft from Deck 4. Photo and copyright Mike Masino 2007.
The ship's interior designer just happens to be on board for this cruise. She informed me that many of the soft fittings (including the upholstery on the chairs in the Seven Continents Restaurant and the carpeting in the stairtowers) will be replaced. These materials were not ready for installation during DISCOVERY's most recent drydocking, so they will be fitted this spring.
Seven Continents Restaurant, facing aft/port. Photo and copyright Mike Masino 2007.
Our dinner tonight was hosted by Captain Kemp and his wife, Bernadette. It was magic to sit across from this master mariner, who fell in love with ships while sailing on Cunard's FRANCONIA when he was six years old (his first passenger vessel command was Safmarine's ASTOR) and hear his stories of interesting ships and the sea. My meal began with a caesar salad and vichyssoise, both of which were excellent, leading to a vegetarian paella main course and the piece de resistance, a simple vanilla ice cream dessert dressed up in a crisp shell made of pastry garnished with Eero Saarinen-like sugared sculptings. The entire press group was quite charmed by the captain, his ironic wit and vast knowledge.
We had to cut our time at the show, a tribute to "Oliver!" and "My Fair Lady", short since tomorrow morning promises to be an early one with our arrival at Paradise Harbor scheduled at 7:00 AM and our zodiac boarding shortly thereafter.
End of Part Three
Continue to Ice Water: part four
Return to Ice Water: part one
Return to Ice Water: part two
