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A Peter Knego Blog
Ice Water Blog, Part One: MV DISCOVERY Ushuaia to Punta Arenas
February 16-24, 2007
February 17, 2007: I'm feeling sleepy, very sleepy, as I sit in the Palm Court of Discovery World Cruises' MV DISCOVERY during her latest Drake Passage southbound crossing. Happily unlike the scenario I envisaged, the seas are calm to moderate, with six foot swells rolling in from the southwest. My chewable, raspberry flavored Meclizine tablets seem to be doing their job nobly, keeping my sea legs intact, but providing a somewhat narcotic side effect.
Palm Court facing forward. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
This gallery setting is a soothing, pleasant space with lime green carpeting, wicker seating, and ochre-colored bulkheads. Alcoves of potted palms and the infusion of natural light from the full-length windows give it the feel of a classic winter garden. Most of the chairs by the windows are occupied by passengers who seem stilled by the tranquil movement of the ship. The visibility is good, although there is a low lying strata of pale gray clouds. From my settee on the inboard side of the room, I am very much enjoying the kaleidoscopic reflection of ivory and turquoise sea foam in the metal ceiling panels.
Our journey began two mornings ago in Buenos Aires. We shook off the long flights with lunch and a walk through the neighborhood adjacent to our centrally-located hotel (the Sheraton Park Towers). From our room, we could see the red and white NYK stripes on the base of CRYSTAL SERENITY's radio mast and the distinctively marked funnel of Pullmantur's BLUE DREAM amidst the cranes and busy skyline of the nearby docklands.
Our second day, yesterday, went quickly with a tour of the city, including a visit to Eva Peron's tomb and the trendy La Boca district. In La Boca, we spotted the former River Plate ferry NICOLAS MIHANOVICH, an interesting vintage vessel that has apparently been abandoned at the local quay. Her last service, according to our guide, was as a transport to a failed casino complex. In the afternoon, we opted to take Discovery World Cruises, excursion to the enchanting town of San Isidro and a cruise through the Le Tigre islands in the Rio de la Plata delta. The islands, themselves, are worth the trip, but the ship spotting was an extra bonus. The main artery, the La Parana River, is clotted with interesting vintage wrecks, some of which have been left in situ for decades. And many of the working vessels are clearly from the 1950s and 1960s. That evening was spent enjoying the popular excursion to the La Ventana club, where we were served a delicious three course dinner, a bottle of Argentine cabernet/syrah, and a stage show consisting of Argentine folkloric music and attractive tango dancers.
NICOLAS MIHANOVICH at Buenos Aires: 2-15-07 Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
Yesterday, bleary eyed, we gathered at 6:30 AM for a flight to Ushuaia, which was mercifully smooth, even as the plane descended through the normally turbulent Beagle Channel. The sleek 1972-built DISCOVERY (ex ISLAND VENTURE, ISLAND PRINCESS) towered over the port, her gleaming white hull and superstructure offset in a backdrop of rainy skies and the dark gray cragginess of the snow streaked Andes. The red-hulled former ice breaker POLAR STAR and the blue hulled SARPIK ITTUK were also at the terminal.
MV DISCOVERY at Ushuaia, Argentina: 2-16-07. Photo and copyright Mike Masino 2007.
Carousel lounge facing starboard. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
Once aboard, we were led to the Carousel Lounge to obtain our shipboard ID cards and cabin keys. The room, itself, retains its original semi-circular shape with banked seating. The color scheme is now in a warm palette of golds and creamy brown and the distinctive original shell-like acoustic fixtures above the dance floor remain.
Cabin 7123. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
Our cabin, 7123, is located on starboard Promenade Deck. It is quite comfortable and pleasantly furnished with twin beds, two tall closets, a small cabinet, a desk, and chest of drawers. There is plenty of space for our camera equipment and cold weather gear. The blue and gold soft fittings are fresh and the tiled bathroom is large with a full sized tub and storage shelves under the sink.
Tierra del Fuego National Park, 2-16-07. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
We enjoyed a quick lunch in the Lido buffet before regrouping for a private tour of Tierra del Fuego National Park. Our guide, Marcella, escorted us along a rocky beach where the waters were breathtakingly clear. The soothing grays of the sky and sea contrasted with brilliant red moss and yellow lichen that clung to the embankment. We also stopped at a vantage in the park's vast grasslands to observe the wildlife, returning to the DISCOVERY in time to watch the SARPIK ITTUK cast her lines and sail off.
MV SARPIK ITTUK. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
Once back on board, we enjoyed dinner in the low key elegance of the Seven Continents Restaurant, which has retained its original layout and distinctive Norwegian arched ceiling recesses. At precisely 8:00 PM, DISCOVERY edged away from her berth. I was delighted to see veteran master, Captain Derrick Kemp, on the starboard bridge wing shortly before the ship gave a triple whistle salute to Ushuaia. The icy wind picked up considerably as we edged into the Beagle Channel and out of the lee of the mountains.
Captain Derrick Kemp, MV DISCOVERY: 2-18-07. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
From various nooks, ranging from the sheltered alcoves on midships Sky Deck to the wind swept docking wings on aft Riviera Deck, I managed to capture bits of footage as DISCOVERY gained speed on her southerly course. The purplish twilight finally gave in to full darkness at 9:30 PM. Occasional sets of rollers have intermittently added swagger to our pitching, but thus far DISCOVERY has taken the seas kindly.
Over stern from Sky Deck. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
The reflection of the passing froth in the ceiling has now faded and the skies are darkening with fog.
End of Part One
Continue to DISCOVERY blog part two
