All images copyright SHAWN J. DAKE, 2008 unless otherwise stated
Photo courtesy of Cunard Line
Dake's Passages:
ONE LAST TIME AROUND
THE FINAL WORLD CRUISE OF THE QUEEN ELIZABETH 2
by
SHAWN J. DAKEHigh on anyone's list of the greatest travel adventures would be a trip around the world. For the past four decades the ultimate way to do that has been aboard the QUEEN ELIZABETH 2, the last of the great ocean liners. Seeing exotic ports in the far flung corners of the globe, while being transported there by Cunard Line's venerable flagship, is an unbeatable combination. In 2008, the QE2, as the ship is so fondly known, would be making her 26th and final World Cruise. The trip was billed as the "South America, Pacific & Far East Odyssey"; the "Farewell World Cruise 2008." Never mind that the voyage would not actually circumnavigate the world. As the brochure stated, it would be "The Greatest Voyage Of All."
For full cruise passengers from Great Britain the journey would last 105 days. American guests sailing roundtrip from New York City, would be aboard 90 days. For my wife and myself, we would be joining the ship in Sydney, Australia for the Circle Pacific portion of the trip, a mere 35 days sailing back to our home port of Los Angeles. Our adventure began a bit sooner than expected as the Qantas 747-400 "Long Reach" climbed into the rainy night sky above LAX. About five minutes into the flight there was a brilliant flash and a loud bang as the lights flickered. Eventually, the pilot came on the intercom and said the plane had been stuck by lightening but all systems were working so we could continue our flight across the Pacific. The remaining 14 hours were uneventful, as airline travel should always be.
QUEEN ELIZABETH 2 passing QUEEN VICTORIA in Sydney Harbor, February 24, 2008. Photo courtesy of Cunard Line.
As we jetted across the International Dateline, Sunday February 24, 2008 did not exist for us. But ahead of us in Sydney, one of the biggest maritime celebrations in history was taking place. Hundreds of thousands turned out to witness the meeting of the brand new QUEEN VICTORIA and the venerable QUEEN ELIZABETH 2. The event was dubbed the "Royal Rendezvous," copying both the artwork and the name from the 2006 meeting of the QUEEN MARY 2 and QUEEN MARY in Long Beach, California. QUEEN VICTORIA spent the day berthed at Circular Quay, the main cruise terminal, while QE2 waited nearby at the Naval base on Garden Island. Just before sunset, the QUEEN VICTORIA vacated her berth to continue on her first World Cruise. For the QUEEN ELIZABETH 2, it was 30 years to the day since her first call in Sydney. The two ships passed each other in the heart of Sydney harbor, just off Fort Denison accompanied by a flotilla of pleasure craft and waving spectators covering every available inch of shoreline. Whistles blasted in salute as the Cunard vessels passed port to port and QE2 moved to Circular Quay while the QUEEN VICTORIA sailed for Brisbane.
QE2, Final Call in Sydney, Australia February 25, 2008
The QE2 berthed with her portside against the pier, bow pointing toward the harbor and the famous "Coathanger" bridge. Off to starboard the Sydney Opera House, completed just four years after the QE2, showed off its distinctive 20th Century architectural style. Boarding officially commenced at 2pm. Above the gangway entrance on Two Deck forward hung a sign saying "Welcome Home, Cunard, Queen Elizabeth 2, World Cruise 2008." Conveniently, we were able to enter our new home on the same deck that we would be residing on for the next month or so, and made our way aft to our cabin #2140.
This is home for the next 35 days
Two Deck Cabin #2140
Stateroom is too generous a term for the shockingly small, 110 square foot inside cubical we had reserved. As most shipboard accommodations do, we hoped that this one would grow on us, at least in our affections, if not in size. It was a nice enough space, with two twin beds on either side of a lovely, if worn, wood veneer chest of drawers. Two wardrobe closets, another small chest, full length mirror and a recently refurbished toilet and shower, completed the tour of our diminutive abode. Not having eaten since the flight, we were more than ready for some food. To our dismay, we found that the staff stick rigidly to the set meal hours onboard, no matter what time embarkation may be. So no late lunch in the dining room, nor welcome aboard buffet in The Lido. We did manage to grab a quick bite in The Pavilion on One Deck adjacent to the outdoor pool, before that fast-food venue also closed for the day.
QE2 preparing to sail from Sydney
Despite the less than stellar welcome, the atmosphere aboard the ship and on the quay in Sydney was electric. This would be the final departure from a port that had grown to love the QE2 during her more than two dozen visits. Witnessing this historic departure, the shore was lined with thousands of onlookers, just as it had been the day before. At 6:30pm, as scheduled, the lines were hauled in, the whistle began blasting and a nearby fireboat raised its spray in salute to the Queen. The tug WATAGAN handled the bow line. The harbor ferry LADY NORTHCOTT acted as an excursion boat for spectators, along with dozens of other small craft. Slowly at first, then picking up a bit more speed, the QUEEN ELIZABETH 2 made her way out of one of the world's most beautiful harbors in the gathering dusk. After dropping the pilot, the ship passed through the Sydney Heads for the last time ever. The scene brought to mind the first meeting at sea of the original QUEEN ELIZABETH and QUEEN MARY that occurred at this location in April, 1941. Once on the open ocean, the wind and waves picked up, making for a really rough night. Exhausted from the long flight and a busy day, we slept right through it.
Dropping the Pilot before reaching Sydney Heads
QE2 belches after two days in the harbor
AUSTRALIA - Sydney to Singapore Segment
Leaving Sydney, the QE2 set a course south across the Tasman Sea. This segment of the "Farewell World Cruise 2008" would follow a fairly unusual route around the bottom of Australia stopping at six ports in that fascinating country. A relaxing day at sea would separate most of them.
Artwork in the Midships Lobby depicts the history of the QE2 from her birthplace in Scotland
And illustrates important ports such as New York and Sydney
Along with historical references to ancestors QUEEN MARY and QUEEN ELIZABETH
And the history of Cunard Line going back to 1840 and the BRITANNIA
Looking across the Midships Lobby, forward toward starboard side
Our first full day aboard was largely spent eating, and for me reacquainting myself with a ship I had first sailed in 31 years earlier. When the QUEEN ELIZABETH 2 was completed in 1969, the ship was a perfect example of the design sensibilities of that decade. The public was expecting something akin to the old Queen liners, but instead were given a pop art masterpiece. Her interiors were largely done in brilliant primary colors, plastics replacing wood paneling in many areas. The exterior was contemporary and sleek. I can still remember the first time I laid eyes on the QE2 and overhearing a fellow spectator say "Oh my goodness; She doesn't have three stacks like the QUEEN MARY." Everything about the QE2 defied the expectations of what an ocean liner, especially a Cunard liner, should look like. It is ironic, yet fitting, that the revolutionary interiors of the young ship morphed into such traditional decor as the Queen aged into her dowager years. Since my Atlantic crossing during the summer of 1977, much had changed, and yet it all still seemed familiar. The Double Room had now become the Grand Lounge, its upper level being given over to shops. The once bright red Theatre Bar was now the dark wood-lined Golden Lion Pub. The lovely Midships Bar had become the equally attractive Chart Room. On the Upper Deck, the Yacht Club all the way aft, is the late night gathering spot, while forward the beautiful Crystal Bar had been created from a portion of the former tourist class dining room. The Queens Room remains largely intact, as does the Quarter Deck Library.
The Grand Lounge looking forward
The Chart Room Bar
The Yacht Club looking aft
The Crystal Bar
Elegant Bas-Relief from the original QUEEN ELIZABETH in the Crystal Bar
Linoleum flooring in the Crystal Bar brings back memories of the old QUEEN MARY and QUEEN ELIZABETH
The Queens Room looking forward
Quarter Deck Library retains much of its original charm
Perhaps making up for the near famine of the previous day, I made sure to take part in the gastronomic overindulgence, that is so much a part of life on the QE2. Breakfast in the Mauretania Restaurant consisted of a wonderful plate of Eggs Benedict. Luncheon followed shortly thereafter with a succulent beef tri tip, and an excellent fruit meringue dessert. The formal dinner that evening started with a duck salad followed by pea soup and a wonderful fish entree of Barramundi with a souffle for dessert. In between meals there were a number of lectures in the Theatre including informative talks about the upcoming ports. For me, the best part of a cruise is enjoying the ocean, walking the decks or simply reading a book in a comfortable deck chair. Those things would become part of the daily routine aboard this great ship. A classical piano concert would round out this first day onboard, before reaching tomorrow's port of call, Hobart Tasmania.
A cloudy morning approaching Tasmania
Tasmanian Devil
Every stop on this cruise would be the final time that the QUEEN ELIZABETH 2 would be paying a visit, so whenever possible a large number of sightseers turned out. The island state of Tasmania provided a nice welcome with a children's choir singing on the dockside. Passengers disembarked for their various tours of the picturesque countryside. At 6:00pm the ship set sail again with much long whistle blowing as bagpipers played Auld Lang Syne on the dock. Dozens of small sailboats accompanied the ship and several dashed dangerously close under her bow. The vintage wooden vessel CARTELA of 1912 provided an lovely escort and was a wonderful vantage point for her passengers bidding their farewells to the QE2.
The lovely CARTELA and a regatta of sailboats escorted the QE2 out of Hobart, Tasmania
Leaving the Tasmanian coastline behind the ship set a northwesterly course towards our next port, Melbourne. I was looking forward to crossing the Bass Strait and later, the Great Australian Bight, as these waters south of Australia have the reputation of being some of the roughest in the world. I would be disappointed as the seas remained calm, with at most a moderate chop. For the first leg of the trip, the QUEEN ELIZABETH 2 is in the capable command of Captain Ian McNaught. Of necessity, he was a no-show at his own cocktail party, trying to grab some sleep before picking up the Melbourne pilot at 2am.
QUEEN ELIZABETH 2 tied up at Melbourne, Australia on February 29, 2008
The "Puffing Billy" Steam Train through the Dandenong Ranges was one of the many excursions offered at Melbourne
I would love to fully describe all of the enjoyable activities that can be found ashore in each of the ports, but space limitations simply do not permit that indulgence. Suffice it to say all had their unique attributes that were varied and enjoyable. Onboard the ship itself, the most notable thing about our stay in Melbourne is that it was the only time on the entire voyage that a tie was not required for dinner. Formal dress on a vessel like the QE2 may seem like a wonderful concept, but believe me, it gets old when it is required every night, especially after a long day ashore or at the beach. Melbourne was also one of the few ports where there was another passenger ship docked. Across the berth was the large ferry SPIRIT OF TASMANIA I, which departed prior to our midnight sailing.
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Fast Ferry SPIRIT OF TASMANIA I departs Melbourne
Goodnight and Goodbye, Melbourne from the QE2
After another sunny day at sea, our next port was Adelaide. We spent the day sightseeing with wonderful friends I had made years ago aboard the FAIR PRINCESS; that ship itself, a former Cunarder, the CARINTHIA. When we returned to the pier, it seemed like the entire city had turned out to watch the QE2 depart. There are many Australian citizens aboard for this segment who seem to be having a wonderful time waving goodbye to their countrymen, usually with tiny Aussie flags.
The QE2 pays a last visit to Adelaide
All of the Australian ports gave the QE2 tremendous send-offs
Another day at sea provided time to take care of some business, such as booking all of our shore excursions, checking email at the Computer Centre and doing some shopping. That evening there was another cocktail party for repeat passengers, some of whom had cruised with Cunard for thousands of days. The Queens Lounge was also the location for the first of several formal balls to be held onboard. Tonight's was the Black and White Officer's Ball.
Captain Ian McNaught presides over the Black & White Officer's Ball in the Queens Room
The next day we arrived at Albany, a small port on the southwestern tip of Australia. This would be both the maiden and farewell call of the QE2 at this small town which is growing in popularity as a tourist destination. The turquoise waters and the rugged coastline here are spectacular. This pioneering call proved popular enough that Cunard is including Albany on future World Cruises of the QUEEN VICTORIA. Once again, more people than seemed possible lined the cliffs and shores to witness the ship's departure.
First and last call at Albany, Australia, March 4, 2008
A World War II bunker overlooks the spectacular coastal scenery near Albany
A didgeridoo Bon Voyage too!
Welcome home
But the biggest sendoff of all awaited us at Fremantle, the last Australian port. All day we toured far north of Perth, up to Yanchep National Park and the massive white sand dunes at Lancelin. It was too much fun sandboarding on the dunes followed by a very long drive back to Fremantle. Our tour bus was late in returning from that days shore excursion, delaying the departure time by nearly 1 1/2 hours. By that point, hundreds of people were lining the decks on the QE2 and thousands were watching from every available vantage point ashore.
One of the symbols of Australia; a Koala at Yanchep National Park
Sandboarding at Lancelin Dunes
Fremantle turned out by land, air and sea to salute the QUEEN ELIZABETH 2 on the vessel's final departure from Australia
Fireboats sprayed their water cannons while overhead a plane towed a banner bidding farewell and news helicopters buzzed everywhere. Hundreds of pleasure boats of every description accompanied the ship out of the harbor, only turning back when it was well out to sea. Without a doubt, it was the most spectacular sendoff of the entire World Cruise. As the QUEEN ELIZABETH 2 literally sailed off into the sunset, the Australian portion of her long career came to an end.
The next four days would be spent crossing the Indian Ocean, and each day would get progressively hotter as the latitudes became smaller. For most of this stretch, we ran at an average speed of 24.7 knots; Fast for most ships but a leisurely pace for the QE2. For passengers, life onboard slowed down a bit as well. After the hectic succession of ports in Australia, the long stretch at sea provided a welcome respite. Sleeping in late then reading the ship's newspaper that was slipped under the door each morning, became another part of the routine. It was a bit depressing to read the financial news, as every day the U.S. dollar sank lower against foreign currencies. Never good news, but especially not when you're traveling. The hot weather was conducive to spending a great deal more time around the outdoor pool on One Deck. If you ever want to locate me on a cruise ship, go all the way to the stern and in the closest chair to the aft flagstaff that's where you'll find me. After numerous dips in the pool and a soak in the Jacuzzi it was time to go inside and dress for dinner. In the evening the mood was sublime as we sipped Oranji Martinis in the Crystal Bar while watching the most spectacular sunset I have ever seen anywhere in the world. The next day after a very tasty salmon omelet for breakfast, I had the pleasure of a brief meeting with Captain Ian McNaught who was signing memorabilia from the voyage. His love for the QE2 was evident in his comments and the inscription he wrote in one of my brochures. After good-naturedly dismissing a picture of the new QUEEN VICTORIA, he wrote above a photograph of the QE2, "A real passenger liner!" The weather became too hot to resume sunbathing by the pool so we relocated to the wooden deck chairs on the shady, starboard side of the Boat Deck. The "Port side Out, Starboard side Home" origins of the word Posh are clearly understandable in these latitudes.
Krakatoa! Actually a bit West of Java
An Indonesian ferry off the Southeastern tip of Sumatra
On March 8th we sighted land for the first time in three days as we sailed through Indonesian waters. Off the port side was the cone-shaped volcanic island of Krakatoa. I truly felt like I had reached the ends of the earth, finally reaching a place I thought was too far away to ever hope to see. Shortly after, the QE2 passed through the four mile wide, Selat Sunda, the passage between the islands of Java and Sumatra. For the first time I noticed that the security staff had deployed LARAD (Long Range Acoustical Devices) along both sides of the Boat Deck and at the stern. When activated, these mechanisms emit a sound so intense that it should drive off would be attackers, be they pirates or terrorists.
King Neptune and his Court board the QE2
Chief Engineer Paul Yeoman and Captain Ian McNaught face the Judge, Cruise Director Warren Smith at the Equator
Beware of transvestites bearing fish
Apparently the King and Queen had never crossed the Equator before either
The following day was Sunday, March 9th. At noon, as the ship left the Java Sea and entered the South China Sea, King Neptune and his court came aboard to preside over one of the most venerable of shipboard traditions, the "Crossing The Line" ceremony at the equator. Passengers and crew alike had to face a colorful collection of characters including the Judge, the Butcher, creatures from the deep, and perhaps most frightening, a transvestite nurse carrying a large gutted fish which was placed on the head of each participant. The "Pollywogs" (first time crossers) were then drenched in a variety of disgusting concoctions and covered in spaghetti, before they gladly leaped into the pool to clean up. As a "Shellback" on my fourth crossing of the line, I was safe from this good-natured purgatory. After it was over, the pool was drained and the poor deck hands had to scrub up the mess in the intense heat.
Later that evening the QE2 crossed latitude zero, the equator, for the last time
At 8:10pm that evening, we finally reached the actual equator, crossing at latitude 0.00 degrees and longitude 106 degrees east. A bottle of champagne and a five course dinner in the restaurant completed our celebration of this singular achievement. Nearing the westernmost point of the cruise, we set the clocks back an hour before going to bed.
ASIA - Singapore to Osaka segment
Before dawn the QE2 arrived off the cosmopolitan city/state of Singapore. Cabin #2140 sits directly over the propellers which is fine except when they change the pitch and begin to slow down, at they did at 3:20am. Then the cabin shakes like a blender and makes a horrible racket. The QE2 docked far outside the city at the Pasir Panjang container terminal. Free shuttles were provided into the heart of the city.
The Raffles Hotel and the Merlion are enduring symbols of Singapore
At Singapore, a large portion of the Australian passengers disembarked, to be replaced by new groups of Japanese travelers. Strange as it may seem, Cunard Line has a policy of changing crew in the middle of the World Cruise, and this affected all departments. Captain McNaught left to go on leave, being replaced by Captain David Perkins, the 25th person to be Master of the QUEEN ELIZABETH 2 during her 39 year career. The two men could not have had more divergent personality types or demeanors. The affable Captain McNaught would return for the final voyages and will be the one to take the ship to her future home in Dubai. Quite unlike the grand sailaways from Australian ports, nothing significant marked the departures in Asia. Part of this was due to the ship being docked so far away from the city centers repeatedly. Captain Perkins also seemed to have an aversion to blowing the whistle except when absolutely necessary, and certainly not for something as fun and trivial as a salute. So silently we slipped away from Singapore, weaving amongst the hundreds of cargo ships at anchor in the gathering darkness.
The QE2 carefully picked her way through the armada of ships anchored off Singapore
More than 570 new segment passengers had embarked at Singapore, but a larger number than that had left the ship, so it felt less full. The Lido restaurant added a buffet station serving dishes preferred by the Japanese passengers. Luncheon aboard the QE2 is available in five different locations daily. The main dining rooms all serve full course menus.
The Lido: In the location of the former the Quarter Deck Pool
The Pavilion: Overlooks the remaining outdoor pool on One Deck Aft
In addition pub food is available at the Golden Lion Pub, while The Lido, The Pavilion and The Funnel Bar all serve a variety of foods in a casual setting. When I first traveled on the QE2 in the 1970's it truly was a two class liner. Today, as a one class ship it actually has more class distinctions, as the main dining rooms are strictly divided by the type of room passengers are traveling in.
Queens Grill
Entrance to the Princess Grill on Upper Deck Portside
Princess Grill
Britannia Grill
Caronia Restaurant
Mauretania Restaurant
The elite from the Q-grade suites on Signal, Sun, Boat, One and Two Decks dine in the Queens Grill at the forward end of Boat Deck. Next in line are the P-grade guests in the attractive accommodations on Decks One through Three, who dine in either the Princess or Britannia Grills located forward on the Quarter Deck. Passengers in the former first class cabins on Decks One through Four are designated as C-grade and use the Caronia Restaurant, also on the Quarter Deck. The remaining M-grade guests call decks Two through Five home, and dine in two sittings in the Mauretania Restaurant, on the Upper Deck, forward. All of the restaurants serve basically the same menu, although the presentation and atmosphere certainly improve as one moves up the food chain. The quality of the food on the QUEEN ELIZABETH 2 was certainly good and occasionally excellent. One drawback of a longer voyage is that the same items tended to be repeated every couple weeks.
Queen Elizabeth 2 anchored off Vung Tau, Vietnam
The next port of call would be a highlight of the cruise. March 12th the QE2 dropped anchor off the coast of Vietnam. With the deep, 32 foot draft of the ship, and the shallow coastal waters, we were anchored a very long way from shore. Tenders took about half an hour to reach the docks in the working port of Vung Tau. From there it was a 2 1/2 hour drive into Ho Chi Minh City, the former Saigon, on a tour. The traffic, made up primarily of millions of people on motor scooters, makes a lasting impression on any visitor.
Quiet amidst chaos
Quiet amidst chaos (2) in Ho Chi Minh City
Hydrofoils provide fast transportation along rivers
We returned to Vung Tau, which means anchorage, long after dark. When it became obvious that the ship's tenders would not be able to handle the large number of guests still waiting to get back aboard, a hydrofoil named VINA EXPRESS was chartered and provided much greater capacity and faster service. At 9:00pm, two hours late, the QE2 pulled up anchor and carefully made her way through the shallows and back out to sea. Tonight, the clocks were set forward one hour. It was the first of 17 time zones that the ship would go through on the remainder of the World Cruise before reaching Southampton. For us, it also marked the halfway point in our 35-day journey.
On a fast boat to China, March 13, 2008
Throughout the next day the ship sped along at 29 1/2 knots trying to make up some of the time from the late departure. The Captain made one of his rare announcements to inform passengers that we would be arriving late into Hong Kong, but would make up for it by staying four hours later than scheduled. On most previous World Cruises, the QE2 spent at least two days in this magnificent harbor but this time it would be hours. Even more disappointing was watching the ship sail past her normal pier at the famous Ocean Terminal to the distant container yards of Kwai Chung. Besides ignoring the important historical aspect of this being the ship's last call at Hong Kong, the indignity of the container docks also cost passengers precious time by having to be shuttled once again to the city.
Dragon amongst the containers
SUPERSTAR AQUARIUS
CRYSTAL SERENITY, serene at the Ocean Terminal, Hong Kong
Ironically, the shuttle dropped us off near the Ocean Terminal which was being occupied by the luckier guests on the newly renamed SUPERSTAR AQUARIUS (ex. NORWEGIAN WIND, WINDWARD) and the CRYSTAL SERENITY. Hong Kong is such a great city for shopping and sightseeing. And the wonderful, vintage Star Ferry still gives the greatest harbor cruise in the world at just 0.30 cents for passage on the Upper Deck or 0.23 cents on the Lower.
Bustling Kowloon
A Star Ferry with Hong Kong for a backdrop
Builder's Plate of the NORTHERN STAR; Star Ferry that is.
After a full day of sightseeing on our own, we returned to the ship for dinner. At our table by the portside windows we watched the busy activity on the container dock while enjoying one of the best meals of the cruise, a delicious Peking-style duck dish, followed by Cr¸me Brule for dessert. The only thing that could have made it better would have been a view of the lights reflecting off Hong Kong harbor. At 10:00pm the QE2 cast off for the last time from Hong Kong. For the first time, we changed into our cold weather clothing, and sat on the Boat Deck as the ship made her way through the beautiful harbor.
After Hong Kong we had two full days at sea to recover from all the sightseeing and prepare for our next stop in China. Passing through the Taiwan Strait the QUEEN ELIZABETH 2 left the South China Sea in her wake and passed into the East China Sea. The weather has cooled off considerably so less time is spent outdoors. The wind was blowing so hard that the ship was being held back a bit, and had slowed to just 16 knots. These sea days provided a good opportunity to participate in shipboard activities. Typically there would be a destination lecture in the Theatre at 11:00am, followed by a science or "learning" lecture at 12:15pm. Today we took a break for a casual lunch of Fish & Chips in the Golden Lion Pub, before heading back into the Theatre for the afternoon movie. Another activity for many is shopping for clothing, jewelry, gifts and souvenirs in the many boutiques onboard or for maritime books in the excellent shop adjacent to the library. On Two Deck is an internet center where guests can check for emails from home. Then it was up to the Boat Deck to walk the five laps that equal one mile. Since the Boat Deck does not encircle the ship, walkers have to cut through the interior, just forward of the Queens Grill.
Deck scene in the China Sea
Shuffleboard on the aft Boat Deck
Closed due to high winds. Stairs from port Boat Deck to Sun Deck forward
The only forward observation point on the ship up on Sun Deck is always closed at sea due to high winds. The best way to see what lies ahead unfortunately is on the cabin television set. The TV also provides several channels of movies, many of which are geared toward the geographic areas in which the ship is sailing. A good example is the 1932 Marlene Dietrich movie "Shanghai Express" which I watched while dressing for yet another formal dinner.
Old and new collide in Shanghai
The Bund
Chinese passenger liner SU ZHOU HAO against a backdrop of new construction in central Shanghai
The cold, gray morning seemed to reflect the mood of both the passengers and the Chinese officials on arrival in Shanghai. Due to her size, the QE2 docked miles away from the city, at a container area along the filthy brown Yangtze River Delta. The water quickly discolored the toilets onboard. Chinese bureaucracy appeared intent on making landing procedures as difficult as possible, but eventually relented and going ashore went relatively smoothly. Shore excursions toured a multitude of aspects of this rapidly changing city of 18 million people. After a very long day, it felt good to see the lights of the QE2 shining through the haze. Had the "Welcome Home" sign been hung out today, it would have been even more meaningful that usual.
It's good to be back aboard
We cleaned up and dressed for an excellent dinner of Chateaubriand. Since it was St. Patrick's Day, the Queens Room was appropriately decorated for an elegant ball while the Grand Lounge presented a variety show with three entertainers. Most evenings there is just one. Entertainment is certainly not the forte of this particular cruise. There are no "name" entertainers ever, and even production shows with costumed dancers are rare. One of my favorite parts of the day is hearing the noon report on the ship's speed and position along with the weather forecast. Today, all you had to do was look outside to see that it was raining. The announcement informed us that the winds were blowing across the decks at 45 knots. A very good day to stay inside. In one way, this would be one of the most memorable days of the cruise.
Racing in the rain across the East China Sea
The TV monitor says it all
In the inclement weather, the QE2 was racing along at 29 knots. By early evening, the cabin television showed that the speed was steadily increasing. As our little cabin rattled, I saw the speed increase to a maximum of 32.8 knots, and took a photo of the TV display to prove it. Even on her trials with the new MAN diesel engines following the 1987 refit, she did a maximum of 33 knots. It is very likely that this is the fastest speed that will be attained by an ocean liner ever again. I, for one, will never forget this speedy day in the East China Sea between China and Japan.
QE2 alongside at Osaka, Japan
Sacred deer at Nara, Japan
The gangway provides the QE2's last link to Asia
Departure from Osaka as the QE2 leaves Japan behind
On March 19, 2008, the QUEEN ELIZABETH 2 docked in Osaka, Japan for the last time. The ship was alongside at the Tempozan Village, a modern facility with a built-in shopping center and a giant 300 foot tall Ferris wheel, similar to the London Eye. Shore tours took passengers to the nearby cities of Kyoto and Nara. The Japanese love the QE2 and quite a few turned out in the rain to witness the vessel's final departure from Asia. On the Boat Deck we huddled under lifeboat #19 on the starboard side, to watch the neon lit city slip into the distance. The departing whistle blast seemed a bit more mournful than usual. From here we were heading into the Pacific and eventually on to the United States. Another leg of the trip was ending and there was a lot of ocean ahead of us.
PACIFIC CROSSING - Osaka to Los Angeles segment
The trans-Pacific crossing got off to a surprising start by running into heavy weather due to an unreported low pressure area. I awoke during the night to find the cabin rocking and rolling in ways I would not have thought possible. It was like being shaken inside a snow globe. By morning things had settled down considerably and only then did we find out the severity of the storm we had been in. Wind speeds had reached 80-100 miles per hour. On the Beaufort Scale we were in a force 11-12 gale. During the day the ship continued to plough through 12-15 foot swells at 25 knots, which made for a bit of rocking. Six full days would be spent crossing the North Pacific. Every night the clocks would be set forward another hour. We found ourselves staying up longer but also waking up later each day. The sea days provided the luxury of time. Hours could be enjoyed talking to new shipboard friends. One Australian couple we became acquainted with had immigrated from England to their home in Perth on the old Orient Line's OTRANTO. Another couple from Liverpool were the right age to have gone to school with siblings of The Beatles.
Original First Class stateroom #2076, now a Q3 grade room
Two Deck stateroom #2076 looking inboard
Touring the QE2 from top; the kennels
Private staircase between Sun and Signal Deck Suites
Thalassotherapy Pool in the Six Deck Spa
To bottom; the indoor pool on Seven Deck
A London couple found the changes made to the QE2 over the years to be a fascinating subject and I spent many hours guiding them through areas of the ship, deck by deck, armed with old original sets of plans and memories. After several days of this, it was safe to say that we had seen virtually every accessible area of the QUEEN ELIZABETH 2. When not being sociable there was plenty of time for reading and dozing, another longstanding shipboard tradition. Afternoon tea with scones and clotted cream was always a treat, when not stuffed too full from lunch. As the weather became warmer, having a swim in the pool before getting ready for dinner, again became part of the daily routine.
Delicious dessert cakes at afternoon tea
Days crossing the Pacific
The funnel on a beautiful day at sea
Cherry Blossom Ball in the versatile Queens Room
On the first of the two March 22nd's that made up the shipboard calendar, the Queens Room was beautifully decorated in an Oriental motif for the Cherry Blossom Ball. Besides the daily time changes, crossing the International Dateline caused quite a bit of confusion. According to the cruise brochure and by ship's time we would have two Saturdays. The geographical reality should have made it two Sundays instead, but perhaps owing to Sunday being Easter, Cunard moved it up by a day. Either way, the dateline was indeed crossed while the passengers and crew of the QE2 celebrated Easter on March 23rd.
Easter decorations in The Lido
The British red ensign and Cunard Line house flag add color to the Theatre for Easter Sunday worship
The Theatre seats 530 passengers for lectures, films, musical recitals and Sunday church services
Easter flowers and bronze art from the MAURETANIA (ii)
The ship was nicely decorated for the holiday and on returning to the cabin after breakfast there was a basket of chocolate eggs. There was an Anglican Easter church service held in the Theatre, followed by an Interdenominational Divine Service conducted by Captain Perkins and a wonderful Filipino choir. The seas were like glass and it was a pleasant day to be outside. The sea days seemed to pass by rather quickly. A usual shipboard routine, which may seem boring to some, can become a very pleasant lifestyle, especially when passing those days on the QUEEN ELIZABETH 2.
Pre-dawn arrival in Honolulu, Hawaii
QUEEN ELIZABETH 2, Final call at Honolulu
Boat Days at the Aloha Tower
DIAMOND PRINCESS at Aloha Tower, Pier 11
After all of the days spent traveling at 25 knots, a change in the speed and the pitch of the propellers is quite noticeable. When the room started shaking, I knew we must be nearing Honolulu. I watched the lights of Waikiki and in the distance the outline of Diamond Head during our pre-dawn arrival. There were 3,666 nautical miles under our keel since the last time we had seen land. As per Cunard tradition this cruise, we docked at a former cargo pier instead of the Aloha Tower. The DIAMOND PRINCESS followed us in and took that berth. It was a picture perfect day in Honolulu. A walk along the waterfront revealed a wide variety of boats and ships. From the top of the Aloha Tower, there were contrasting views of the lovely lines of the QUEEN ELIZABETH 2 and the more modern profile of jagged balconies on the DIAMOND PRINCESS.
Matson Lines opened the doors to the Royal Hawaiian Hotel in 1927
Mai Tai's at the Royal Hawaiian
Demon Rum in a tropical paradiseLater in the day we made our way to Waikiki enjoying the beach and soaking up the atmosphere, along with the Mai Tai's at the Royal Hawaiian Hotel; Matson's "Pink Palace Of The Pacific." Having missed dinner, we put in a rare appearance at the midnight buffet in The Lido. It was a lovely night to be out on deck. At 1 o'clock in the morning the QE2 departed Honolulu for the last time, with no fanfare. By daylight, the ship was anchored off Lahaina, Maui. From the Boat Deck we were able to watch whales in the bay, not too far from the ship.
Arrival off Maui, Hawaii on March 26, 2008
QE2 anchored off Lahaina, Maui, with island of Lanai in the distance
Last day under Hawaiian skies
Hoisting the anchor on the bow
Goodbye Maui
Farewell Hawaii forever
The tender to shore had seating on top which provided a great platform to take pictures of QE2 at her anchorage. After another beautiful beach day ashore it was back to the ship and some more outdoor time lounging by the One Deck pool. On the bow, the crew raised the anchor, washing the chains with fire hoses while another deck hand rang the ship's bell as certain points on the chain were reached. In the distance humpback whales played as the sun brilliantly lit the island of Maui, becoming an intense orange sunset beyond neighboring Lanai. At 6:15pm on March 26, 2008 the QUEEN ELIZABETH 2 started her engines and making a big U-turn left the Hawaiian Islands behind forever. There were no whistle blasts and no man-made tributes of any kind as the QE2 slipped away. The incredible sunset and some breaching whales were her only farewells. Captain Perkins quickly took his command up to 28 knots as the course was set for California.
This would be a very fast crossing, with just three days at sea. During most of the cruise, the final days seemed very far away, but now it truly was coming to an end and there didn't seem to be time to do everything we still wanted to do. We had made many new friends on board, two of which we invited to dinner with us in the Mauretania Restaurant. For them, it would be slumming since normally they dined in the Queens Grill. They seemed to enjoy it however. As was frequently our habit, we enjoyed pre-dinner drinks in the Crystal Bar. After dinner, more drinks in the Chart Room bar. Quiet, social evenings are another of the great pleasures aboard QE2. The next evening was a special treat for us, as other acquaintances invited us to dine with them in the Queens Grill, as they had two empty places at their table. Even Lord and Lady Mountbatten had failed in their attempt to bring guests up to the Grill earlier in the cruise, so we were feeling pretty special. The food, service and presentation were incredible. So were the tales told about the other passengers dining in the Queens Grill. Without going into details, wealthy and eccentric are two terms that would apply. Following dinner we adjourned for drinks in the Queens Grill Lounge. This evening was a wonderful change of pace from our usual dinner routine. The night continued into the wee hours in the Yacht Club where our favorite band aboard, Nova, was performing.
Plated over windows outside the former Double Up Room on the Boat Deck
Doing what I love best
The final sea days before reaching the mainland of the United States would be filled with activities. Every year the crew and passengers of the QE2 raise money for World Cruise Charities. The culmination of those efforts is the annual Country Fayre set up in the Grand Lounge. Booths offered a variety of games and there were donated items to purchase, which the women especially seemed to enjoy. Like most of the men, I quickly fled, as the crowded lounge looked more like a day after Thanksgiving Day sale than a luxury liner. Saturday, March 29th would be our 35th and final day at sea. The Captain keeps varying the speed, once running the ship up to 30 knots then slowing down to 26 knots. Either way, it is fast and impressive to watch the long wake trailing out behind this great ocean liner. Today the passenger talent show was held in the Grand Lounge.
Some of the talent in the talent show
A final sunset sailing eastbound across the Pacific toward California
It opened with Mary, the "QE2 Diva" who has spent many years aboard, singing an aria in a wedding dress. An American gentleman sang "So Long It's Been Good To Know You" which seemed highly appropriate for the occasion. The performances were all very sincere, in a way that could only happen on the QE2.
Caroline Dake and the author Shawn Dake share a last sorbet in the Mauretania Restaurant
Wonderful waiters, Santosh and Jessica
Rockin' the night away to "Nova" in the Yacht Club
The final day seemed to fly by. A final chance to have drinks in the Crystal Bar, a final dinner in the Mauretania Restaurant and a last goodbye to our outstanding wait staff, Jessica from Australia and Santosh from Mauritius. Instead of packing we danced to reggae music in the Yacht Club until late. I finally got the luggage out at 2am before getting a few hours sleep.
Early morning arrival at the Port of Los Angeles
Royal Caribbean's VISION OF THE SEAS followed the QE2 in
Boat Deck; the last walk around
Home sweet home. Cruise Over
The QUEEN ELIZABETH 2 picked up the Los Angeles pilot at 5:30am on March 30, 2008. Less than an hour later the ship was alongside pier 92 on the main harbor channel in San Pedro. Following behind, the VISION OF THE SEAS moved into berth 93, where the QE2 had docked on her first World Cruise visit to Los Angeles in 1975. After my favorite breakfast of sliced bananas in cream, salmon with capers and onions, and Eggs Benedict, it was time to go. At 9:40am, we left via the Two Deck gangway and stepped ashore and back into real life. Our cruise was over.
The last goodbye, March 30, 2008
She's not turning around
Glory in reverse at Los Angeles harbor
The ship would spend the remainder of the day tied to the pier. At 5:20pm, she dropped her lines and pushed away from the dock. Everyone expected her to turn around, but instead she just kept moving away backwards down the channel. A bagpipe could be heard coming from the pier, but there were no fireboats or any other final farewells. The setting sun glistened beautifully along her sides giving some dignity to her reverse passage out of Los Angeles. Several people came out to see the QE2 leave for the last time, but it was not a large crowd. Just the curious, and those who cared. I watched her turn in the outer harbor and point her bow out to sea. I watched after she passed Angel's Gate Lighthouse and sailed beyond the breakwater. I watched her knowing that once I stopped, I would never see this wonderful ship again. Farewell QUEEN ELIZABETH 2. You served your company, crew and passengers well.
Bow to the sea nearing Angel's Gate Lighthouse
A final look beyond the L.A. breakwater
QUEEN ELIZABETH 2 - VITAL STATISTICS OF AN OCEAN LINER
Contract Signed: December 30, 1964 by Sir John Brocklebank on behalf of Cunard Line. Builders: John Brown & Company (Clydebank) Ltd., later Upper Clyde Shipbuilders Ltd. Scotland. (Final passenger ship to be built by this famous shipyard).
Yard Number: 736
Keel Laid: July 4, 1965
Launched: September 20, 1967 by Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II. (The Queen in fact named the ship after herself, using the words "I name this ship Queen Elizabeth the Second. May God bless her and all who sail in her.")
Shakedown Cruise: December 23, 1968 to the Canary Islands. Aborted after major turbine faults and unfinished passenger accommodations.
Delivered to Cunard Line: April 18, 1969
Maiden Voyage: May 2, 1969 Southampton to New York.
Port of Registry: Southampton, England.
Gross Registered Tonnage: 65,863 as built in 1969. 70,327 at end of service in 2008.
Length: 963 feet (293.53 meters)
Beam: 105.25 feet (32.06 meters)
Draft: 32.75 feet (9.94 meters)
Height: 204.1 feet (62.20 meters) Keel to top of funnel.
Original Machinery: Four steam turbines from builders, double reduction geared driving twin screws.
Re-Engined: November, 1986 to April, 1987 at Lloyd Werft, Bremerhaven, Germany. Nine MAN B&W diesel engines driving two electric propulsion motors.
Speed: 28.5 knots cruising. 33 knots maximum.
Passenger Capacity: Originally 564 first class, 1,441 tourist class in 1969. Total numbers changed frequently. Final capacity 1,791 one class in 2008.
Crew: 906 to 993.
Career Mileage and Service: QE2 has traveled approximately 5 1/2 million miles. She is the longest serving Cunard vessel at 39 1/2 years.
Final Voyage: November 11, 2008 from Southampton to Dubai, United Arab Emirates. Retired from active service on November 27, 2008 following 16-day delivery voyage to new owners.
QUEEN ELIZABETH 2
MAY 2, 1969 - NOVEMBER 27, 2008End
Special thanks to Jackie Chase, Cunard Line, Martin Cox, Maritimematters
All images copyright SHAWN J. DAKE, 2008, unless otherwise stated.
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