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All images copyright SHAWN J. DAKE, 2007
Dake's Passages:
Shawn Dake files this log from DELTA QUEEN: Page ThreeClick here for Previous DELTA QUEEN page
Old rail bridge and white cliffs of Alabama.
Continuing LOG OF THE STEAMBOAT DELTA QUEEN,
ALONG SOUTHERN RIVERSBy SHAWN J. DAKE
DAY 6, OCTOBER 13, 2007, CRUISING THE TENNESSEE-TOMBIGBEE WATERWAY AND THE BLACK WARRIOR RIVER
In the early morning, the fog still hung over the river but the tops of trees were becoming visible. The hardworking deck hands were out early, as they are everyday, swabbing the decks and wiping down the railings. Today will be the last full day of cruising before reaching the final destination of this journey. Yet in so many ways, quietly gliding over smooth water, between, but always close to the forest, and feeling the inner peace that only a river can provide, is the destination. This is a different side of America, one far removed from the nonsense of politicians and the blathering of news media. Removed from roadways and billboards and the distractions of our so-called normal, everyday lives. As I sit in a rocking chair on the bow of this riverboat, herself a relic, far removed from the modern age, I am in perfect harmony with the things that are good and right with this world. The book I am reading is a wonderful companion on this trip. 'River-Horse' by William Least Heat-Moon provides evocative images of traveling across America by boat. A small example: "River travel commonly makes this country appear as it ought to be... I could never really know America until I saw it from the bends and reaches of its flowing waters." Part of the beauty of the DELTA QUEEN is found in what is physically aboard: the oak, mahogany, walnut and Oregon cedar wood-paneling, the teak railings and the Siamese ironbark floor of the Orleans Room, the coppered (not leaded) stained-glass windows, crystal chandeliers, the wonderful sound of the steam whistle and a million other small things. But the real beauty is in the sense of isolation and what's not on board: no television, telephones or internet.
Seeing the world at five miles per hour.
Athwartship passage at the Cabin Deck stern.
Confluence of the Tombigbee and Black Warrior Rivers.
We have steamed past some lovely scenery today including some chalk white cliffs for a few miles along the right bank. After lunch, DELTA QUEEN made a sharp turn to port as we left the Tennessee-Tombigbee Waterway and entered the mouth of the Black Warrior River-the last of our four rivers this trip. At the confluence, two bass fishermen must have been surprised to find a big steamboat coming at them, like a ghost from the past. Few cruises make their way into these waters. A little way up the Black Warrior, the smokestack was lowered as we passed under two bridges; a highway then a rail lift bridge. A ways further upstream, the DELTA QUEEN stopped by the riverbank to allow a six-barge tow of coal to pass. The downstream boat always has the right of way. As the towboat BILOXI passed, both boats exchanged whistle salutes.
The same bell that once tolled for Mark Twain, still serves the same purpose today.
Waves from the GREENWAVE. The DELTA QUEEN inspires everyone who sees her, even veteran towboat captains.
Shadows of ourselves.
Cruising all day gives me time to bring up some random thoughts that I have not mentioned before. The DELTA QUEEN has the greatest chairs! Wooden white rocking chairs are everywhere, metal chairs on the Texas Deck bow include some that recline and rock, and the swings on the forward Cabin Deck are simple (and simply) perfection. Watching the paddlewheel provides endless entertainment. The perspective is different from each of the four decks. As it has throughout the trip, it turns at 12 revolutions per minute. Speed is measured by RPM's rather than miles-per-hour because the flow of the river affects the vessel so much depending if it is going with or against the current. For those that must know speeds, this cruise has probably averaged about five miles per hour. A civilized pace to see the world. As the sun sank lower in the sky, the light became even more fantastic. The glass surface of the water was a mirror for the trees towering skyward. Just another perfect day on the river.
The river mirror.
Nightfall on the Black Warrior River.
My Dad, Delbert Dake, Captain Larry Wilkinson and the author, Shawn Dake aboard the DELTA QUEEN.
Our excellent dining room waiters, Lawrence, Scott and Steven.
An edible swan on a fine china lake.
Darkness, the chilly evening air and the promise of the Captain's Champagne Reception finally lured me indoors. Dress aboard the DELTA QUEEN is usually casual but tonight suit and tie were requested. Met Captain Wilkinson and the officers and staff once again. I was quite well-served with several glasses of champagne, and arriving at the dinner table found yet another one waiting. Even without the generous libations, the dinner still would have been delicious. Lobster bisque, followed by Dungeness Crab with a shrimp salad with blue cheese dressing. My entree selection was a perfect slice of Prime Rib with baked potato. Tonight's dessert was a "swan" filled with chocolate and whipped cream. The show once again was performed by Velda and Eric with music from the 1940's and 50's. Before going to bed, I went on deck and watched the pilot pick out the channel with the help of the searchlights.
DAY 7, OCTOBER 14, 2007, BLACK WARRIOR RIVER TO TUSCALOOSA, ALABAMA
With our arrival time uncertain, I woke up at 3:30am and looked out the window to see the bright lights of a barge tow outside as we slowly crept by. Went back to sleep until daylight, and was pleased to find that we were still cruising. Went down to breakfast and enjoyed a bagel, egg and bacon sandwich along with grits and brown sugar from the buffet. At the Oliver Lock the DELTA QUEEN made one final ascent beyond the dam, then passed under a railroad bridge and a road bridge. At a spot that barely seemed big enough, the boat edged up to the bank of the river, tied off to a couple trees and at 9:00am, the cruise was over. We had reached Tuscaloosa, Alabama. The arrival was not without drama, as the cable from the kingpost to the landing stage got snagged in a Sycamore tree, threatening to break either branch or line. Against this rather steep hillside in a riverfront park, you would not know that you are in one of the most famous university towns in the south. Tuscaloosa is home to the University Of Alabama, Crimson Tide. Tuscaloosa was an Indian chief, and the name means Black Warrior.
Amidst a cloud of steam, deckhands tie the boat off to trees.
DELTA QUEEN makes her final landing of this cruise at Tuscaloosa, Alabama.
The DELTA QUEEN meets the BAMA BELLE at Tuscaloosa.
Although the final landing is complete, the activities of this cruise are far from over. This morning's "Historic Vessel Tour" showcased the alterations that have been made throughout the career of the DELTA QUEEN and pointed out some facts that would not have been known otherwise. The Cabin Deck has received the most extensive renovations from the original 1927 configuration, but even when changes have been made, most of them still date back to the conversion in 1947/48. The 1990 addition of a new, deeper, wider hull wrapped around the original, is one of the few major changes the boat has undergone in recent years. Like her passengers, the DELTA QUEEN's bottom has widened in her later years. On a Sunday morning in Tuscaloosa, not too much is happening. I took a walk through downtown and saw only a few cars and almost no people. The DELTA QUEEN nestled along the river, was the prettiest attraction in my biased opinion. Had lunch onboard; a salad, cheeseburger and slice of pumpkin pie. Perhaps because we hadn't already spent enough time on the river, several other passengers and I decided to go on a river excursion aboard the BAMA BELLE, which was tied up just ahead of us. Mainly I wanted to get some more photos of the DELTA QUEEN from the river.
No matter what angle she is viewed from the DELTA QUEEN evokes another era and the romance of river travel.
The cruise proved to be a nice outing, first sailing upriver, then back down as far as the dam, providing some beautiful views of our classic sternwheeler. In a grand gesture of Southern hospitality, a couple of fellow BAMA BELLE passengers offered to give me a tour of the University campus, which on a sunny day in a red convertible was a memorable treat. This cruise, voyage #DQ630, was supposed to have concluded at Birmingham, Alabama but due to low water in the river, Tuscaloosa was as far as it could go. The final night would be spent tied to the trees. As if to compensate, the sunset placed a golden glow on the sides of the DELTA QUEEN. As it sank lower, the downriver bridges were silhouetted and perfectly reflected in the surface of the water.
The DELTA QUEEN has four rudders, two forward and two aft of the paddlewheel.
The golden girl of Majestic America Line.
Final round of calliope music illuminated with colored lights.
Sunset paints the Black Warrior River astern of the DELTA QUEEN.
At the same time the calliope, bathed in colored lights gave out another fine performance. A passenger requested "Yankee Doodle" which after a few bars quickly segued into a rousing version of "Dixie" meant to appease the local fire department that was on board for a visit. It was a night to say goodbyes to the wonderful staff aboard the DELTA QUEEN, from the gift shop to the waiters and everyone else who made this cruise so memorable. Next, a final dinner in the Orleans Room where I would soon miss the fine food, but not the calories. Tonight I tried the baked Oysters Rockefeller, Salmon Wasabi and roast duck in barbecue sauce. Dessert was a very rich "S'mores Pie" made up of a heavy chocolate brownie with marshmallows and ice cream. After dinner I turned to the chores that are the inevitable ending of a cruise: packing the suitcase and placing it outside the cabin door. Went down one last time for the farewell show with all the entertainers and the band. A lovely rendition of the John Hartford song "Delta Queen Waltz" was a fitting finale. For me, a final walk around the darkened deck would be my personal finale to this memorable voyage.
DAY 8, OCTOBER 15, 2007, TUSCALOOSA, ALABAMA
Rolled out of bed before sunrise and had a shower. Stepping outside the cabin door, I breathed in the brisk, clean, air of dawn. Touched the leaves of the overhanging trees as I walked forward on the Texas Deck to get a feel for the upcoming day. The weather during this week was picture perfect. Today, for the first time, clouds were building up, threatening rain. A good match for my own mood which held a mixture of sadness at having to leave this wonderful old vessel that has been my home for a week, and the trepidation of airline travel. Enjoyed a full breakfast in the dining room with an apple pastry, bacon, sausage, an omelet, tea and orange juice. On most cruise ships, the final morning feels like they are trying to throw you out. Not so, on the DELTA QUEEN. The high level of service remained intact. In fact, many of the crew seemed sorry to see us go, and I was certainly sorry to be leaving. Back to the stateroom to pick up the carry-on bags, then it was time to go.
Texas Deck, Starboard side. Good morning and goodbye.
Along the deck, through the doors of the Texas Lounge, down the Grand Staircase, across the Forward Cabin Lounge, descending the narrower set of brass stairs onto the Main Deck bow and across the landing stage, just like at every stop along the way, only this disembarkation was the final one. Buses were standing by, along with our luggage, ready for the hour or so drive northeast to Birmingham. Along the way it began to rain. Bad weather to the west had shut down Dallas/Ft. Worth Airport snarling air travel. A long day of security lines, sitting in airports and dealing with always charming airline personnel, made me long for a time when transportation was much more civilized. A time like it must have been in 1927. Or a time like it was just hours ago, for me. The DELTA QUEEN is that time capsule. It is a necessary part of life in America.
POSTSCRIPT
"No man's life, liberty, or property are safe while the Congress is in session." - Mark Twain
The DELTA QUEEN has survived many things during the nine decades of her existence. But the biggest threat to her continued operation has always been the United States Congress. Ironically, they also have the power to save her. Without Congressional legislation, the DELTA QUEEN will cease cruising in November, 2008. A brief bit of background is in order regarding Public Law 89-777, the 1966 Safety Of Life At Sea or SOLAS act. In 1965, the vintage cruise liner YARMOUTH CASTLE burned and sank at sea. That vessel had a wooden superstructure. The SOLAS bill banned wooden superstructures on overnight vessels carrying more than 50 passengers. Although designed to prevent disasters on the high seas, the broad language also affected riverboats like the DELTA QUEEN which were never far from shore. Although exemptions were initially granted, the deadline for the DELTA QUEEN to stop sailing was November 2, 1970. One particularly belligerent Congressional representative blocked 25 bills introduced to save the DELTA QUEEN. The proud boat made her "Farewell Forever" voyage down the length of the Mississippi from St. Paul to New Orleans. In the following month, a frenzy of activity led to a clever Missouri Senator quietly attaching a rider to a little-noticed bill to reimburse a postal employee about $900 in moving expenses. The bill, with the amendment to give the DELTA QUEEN an extension to 1973, passed and President Nixon signed it on December 31, 1970. The steamer was saved. Since then, extensions have rather routinely been granted. Unfortunately, history has a way of repeating itself and in 2007 a very similar scenario to that of 37 years before began playing out. In this case Representative James Oberstar from Minnesota and Senator Daniel Inouye of Hawaii, both Chairmen of their respective Transportation Committees, are thwarting all efforts to present exemption legislation before Congress. While both claim that fire safety is their only motivation, they hold close ties to the Seafarers International Union which until 2006 represented the majority of the steamboat's employees. Majestic America Line now operates their boats with non-union personnel. The DELTA QUEEN does have a wooden superstructure and nothing, other than destroying the integrity of the boat can change that.
Passengers are well aware the boat is made of wood, and love her for it. This notice appears on every cabin door.
However, the issue of fire safety is addressed better onboard this boat than possibly any other vessel afloat. Fire retardant paint is used throughout, sprinklers cover all areas, every cabin has individual smoke detectors, the majority of cabin doors open directly to the exterior and most importantly, the boat is rarely more than a few yards from shore and with its flat-bottom can be easily beached in the event of an emergency. Representative Steve Chabot of Cincinnati, Ohio, has introduced a stand alone bill to save the DELTA QUEEN, H.R. 3852. Additional co-sponsors and much public support will be needed to gain passage. Information on the current political efforts can be found at www.save-the-delta-queen.org. The DELTA QUEEN has survived the Great Depression, the Second World War, an ocean voyage, and bankruptcies, so supporters hope that she can once again survive this Congress.
The DELTA QUEEN was designated a National Historic Landmark in 1989 by the Federal Government.
The National Historic Landmark designation reads in part "This site possesses national significance in commemorating the history of the United States Of America." By this measure, in my opinion it would be anti-American to oppose the preservation of the DELTA QUEEN in her present operational condition. Of course, support from her owners is absolutely essential if the boat is to continue to operate. To clarify the position of Majestic America Line, I recently conducted a telephone interview with Joseph G. McCarthy, Vice-President-Corporate Development, General Counsel for Ambassadors International. In August, 2007 the company announced the retirement of the DELTA QUEEN, effective November, 2008, due to a failure to secure legislation to renew the SOLAS exemption. Regarding that, he stated "We believed with everything in our power, and have invested substantial time, money and effort, and were essentially told it would not happen. We were being actively denied by chairmen on both the Senate and House sides. With Congressman Chabot introducing stand alone legislation, someone like that was needed to champion the cause. Otherwise it is equivalent to tilting at windmills." I then specifically asked, if legislation does pass to allow the DELTA QUEEN to operate beyond November, 2008, is it Majestic America Line's position that they would continue to operate the boat? His one word answer was "Absolutely." So as this is written the future of the DELTA QUEEN is once again in doubt and in the hands of politicians, many of whom know very little about this boat and what she means to her passengers and to American history. It should be mandatory that all members of Congress take a cruise on America's rivers aboard the DELTA QUEEN. They would see a side of America they had never seen before and learn what those of us who have traveled aboard already know. The DELTA QUEEN is a symbol of America, part of our heritage, and a great way to take a vacation. "If I may borrow the title of Letha Greene's book about her years with the Greene Line, to close this story, "Long Live The Delta Queen".
The End
LINKS: To learn more about the DELTA QUEEN the following links may prove useful:
www.majesticamericaline.com
www.save-the-delta-queen.org
www.steamboats.org
www.steamboats.comEnd
All images copyright SHAWN J. DAKE, 2007
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